Author’s note: Today I am posting the text of an e-mail I received from Larry Boehm, the CEO of Brushwolf Gear, makers of the Treestand Rattl’r rattle bag. I wrote about my experiences using this product here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in a blog a couple days ago. This note details some deer hunting experiences Larry and his brother had while hunting on public land in Minnesota. These rattle bags can attract deer. I’ve proven that to myself. The bucks mentioned here were taken within the past few days. See what you think after reading this account.
(Start of Larry’s note)
Ray:
Tomorrow I will e-mail you a picture of the bucks my brother and I took in northern MN this weekend. I'm heading to Montana for a hunt later tomorrow, but will try to get a photo and short write-up put together that I can send to my contacts. I'll give you a personal account.
We were hunting 1 1/2 miles back in public forest land that doesn't allow any motorized access, so needless to say we have NO other hunters bothering us. Temperatures on Saturday morning were mid 20's with 25-40mph NW winds, less than ideal for rattling, but the absolute perfect week to be rattling in our area.
I had a couple close encounters earlier in the week with my bow, but no luck, and this was the firearms opener, so I didn't need to bring one in quite as close. At 11:30 my brother rattled in and shot a really nice 2 1/2 year old 160 pound - 6pt (no brow tines).
I met up with him for lunch and after lunch he decided to take a bit of a stroll to warm up. I decided to climb into his stand, about 20 minutes later I saw a buck chasing a doe on the oak ridge across the drainage I was watching. I didn't figure I'd have much chance of luring him away, but had nothing to lose so I smashed my bag against the trunk of the tree as hard as I could to get his attention.
He stopped and looked my way so I started to work the bag on the ground. What happened next was unreal. He spotted my brother’s dead buck which was lying right between us and came on a dead run stopping 5 yards from it. I shot him in the heart at 30 yards. He's a massive 10 pt., 180 pound, 4 1/2 yrs old, 21 inch spread. I'll get you photos tomorrow. I guess I found a new method of decoying.
(End of Larry’s note.)
Remember that I said in my original blog, that this rattle bag comes equipped with a cord so that it can be worked at ground level even when you are in a treestand. Use it at the right time of year (usually mid-October through the end of November) and you might pull pre-rut and main rut phase bucks in close. You want that buck to focus on the source of the sounds – at ground level – and not up in the tree. This bag can offer you this solid advantage.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Showing posts with label treestand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label treestand. Show all posts
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Thursday, October 2, 2008
WHAT DO PARTRIDGE EAT?
BIRD HUNTERS AND DEER HUNTERS CO-OPERATE
By: Ray Hansen
One of the wonderful things I get to observe from a treestand while waiting for a deer to pass within range is other wildlife going about its normal daily routine. Here in Michigan the small game season opens September 15th each year, and that includes Ruffed Grouse. Hunters who hit the woods with pointing dogs each fall call these gamebirds Partridge, and I frequently exchange information with a handful of these guys.
They want to know where I have seen birds, and I want to know where they are seeing deer. And since I simply watch Partridge walking through the woods without shooting them – I’m hunting deer after October 1st – I get to see them feeding. Hunters with dogs never get this chance because the dog points the bird and the hunter moves in to flush it and hope for a clear shot as the partridge rockets away. In the heavy forest cover found hereabouts, the Partridge wins this contest most of the time.
Anyway, from my treestand I have seen these birds consume a variety of foods including leaves from apple trees, buds from the branch tips of aspen (poplar) trees, clover, wintergreen berries, small leaves from fruits like wild strawberry plants, and a small, round black berry that I believe is hackberry.
I have also watched them pick at apples when I hunt near wild apple trees, and I think they catch beetles or grasshoppers at times. I’ve watched them bite and peck in grassy areas and I’m not sure if they chasing bugs or eating the grass itself. When near oaks, I’ve seen them grab acorns but I can’t imagine how they could swallow one. Maybe they target the smaller acorns.
Of all these grouse treats, I have most commonly seen them forage on apple and aspen leaves or the buds from these trees. I often advise grouse hunters to look for places where these trees grow close to a water source, since these spots typically provide gamebirds with all their necessities in a setting where heavier cover offers them security.
Places where wood cutting has taken place two to five years ago are potentially great spots. Here in the Upper Peninsula, poplar (aspen) starts refilling the cutover tracts the following year. Small trees with tender new buds grow in profusion. In addition, the left over branches and brush are usually piled throughout the cut area and grouse use these brushpiles as cover.
Deer also like these “second growth” spots as they are called. I recall hunting near Channing, Michigan one year when I put up a treestand in older growth forest right long the edge of a cut area. In the course of a five-day hunt, two of us tagged bucks thanks to bird hunters.
As the hunters put out their dogs on the edge of the cut nearest the old logging road, deer would move out ahead of the pointers. In nearly every case, the deer would simply circle back through the older timber – and sometimes past my stand – to get behind the bird hunters. The guys looking for partridge often failed to see the deer, or didn’t care because they were not hunting deer. They sure did me a favor though. It made my hunting a lot easier!
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
One of the wonderful things I get to observe from a treestand while waiting for a deer to pass within range is other wildlife going about its normal daily routine. Here in Michigan the small game season opens September 15th each year, and that includes Ruffed Grouse. Hunters who hit the woods with pointing dogs each fall call these gamebirds Partridge, and I frequently exchange information with a handful of these guys.
They want to know where I have seen birds, and I want to know where they are seeing deer. And since I simply watch Partridge walking through the woods without shooting them – I’m hunting deer after October 1st – I get to see them feeding. Hunters with dogs never get this chance because the dog points the bird and the hunter moves in to flush it and hope for a clear shot as the partridge rockets away. In the heavy forest cover found hereabouts, the Partridge wins this contest most of the time.
Anyway, from my treestand I have seen these birds consume a variety of foods including leaves from apple trees, buds from the branch tips of aspen (poplar) trees, clover, wintergreen berries, small leaves from fruits like wild strawberry plants, and a small, round black berry that I believe is hackberry.
I have also watched them pick at apples when I hunt near wild apple trees, and I think they catch beetles or grasshoppers at times. I’ve watched them bite and peck in grassy areas and I’m not sure if they chasing bugs or eating the grass itself. When near oaks, I’ve seen them grab acorns but I can’t imagine how they could swallow one. Maybe they target the smaller acorns.
Of all these grouse treats, I have most commonly seen them forage on apple and aspen leaves or the buds from these trees. I often advise grouse hunters to look for places where these trees grow close to a water source, since these spots typically provide gamebirds with all their necessities in a setting where heavier cover offers them security.
Places where wood cutting has taken place two to five years ago are potentially great spots. Here in the Upper Peninsula, poplar (aspen) starts refilling the cutover tracts the following year. Small trees with tender new buds grow in profusion. In addition, the left over branches and brush are usually piled throughout the cut area and grouse use these brushpiles as cover.
Deer also like these “second growth” spots as they are called. I recall hunting near Channing, Michigan one year when I put up a treestand in older growth forest right long the edge of a cut area. In the course of a five-day hunt, two of us tagged bucks thanks to bird hunters.
As the hunters put out their dogs on the edge of the cut nearest the old logging road, deer would move out ahead of the pointers. In nearly every case, the deer would simply circle back through the older timber – and sometimes past my stand – to get behind the bird hunters. The guys looking for partridge often failed to see the deer, or didn’t care because they were not hunting deer. They sure did me a favor though. It made my hunting a lot easier!
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Saturday, September 27, 2008
LAST MINUTE STUFF FOR DEER - PART 2
This is part 2 of the blog started yesterday. It's nearly time to start bowhunting here in Michigan - the seaon opens October 1 - and I'll be using some of thee tips. Good hunting!
BREAK UP YOUR “ELEVATED OUTLINE”.
An extremely effective tactic is to conceal yourself behind some brush while in your treestand. This helps break up your outline, and lets you get away with movement you may make while positioning for a shot. This is not necessary in all trees, but where natural cover is thin, it can make a big difference.
Since I have some stands that are left in place well before the season starts, I usually jam some dead branches I’ve picked up vertically through the grated platform of the stand when I first put the stand in place. Later when I hunt them, I may take two or three additional branches picked up on the morning I hunt. These are put in place by “twining” them horizontally through the original branches I installed. Ideally, the branches will offer some cover from shoulder height downward when I am seated in the stand. You will have to experiment with branch placement when the stand is put in place. You should have room for movement, but leave nothing in the way to interfere with drawing your bow.
HITTING WHAT YOU AIM AT
This is one of the most common “last minute” situations bowhunters have to work on… target practice. Not only do you have to be able to hit what you aim at using gear you are accustomed to, you need to adapt to any new equipment you add. In my case for example, I replaced the arrows I had used for many years with new Carbon Express Maxima shafts. Their “Crossweave” shafts make them stronger without adding weight. These are great arrows, and I have had good experiences with them.
When I first took them to the range, they did not hit where the other arrows did. I expected that, and re-adjusted my sights to compensate. Later, I bought a new set of sights and I had to make another round of adjustments. I’ve had to re-sight my bow while illuminating the target with truck headlights, because I made changes in camp at night. One time I somehow lost a string silencer and replaced it in camp. The point-of-impact for my arrows immediately moved four inches to the right! The point is, do not change equipment without re-sighting.
When I get to the camp I hunt from, among the first things I do is to set up a portable target so I can practice every day. Shoot some arrows sitting on an overturned plastic bucket. Launch a few while standing and facing the target as well as from the extreme left or right positions. Even if you are on the ground, tie a safety strap to a tree and lean out one way or another. See how your arrows hit from these common shooting angles.
In closing, I’ll say that everyone faces a few last-minute challenges. Eliminate as many potential problems as you can beforehand. You owe it to the game you pursue, and each step helps insure a successful hunt.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
BREAK UP YOUR “ELEVATED OUTLINE”.
An extremely effective tactic is to conceal yourself behind some brush while in your treestand. This helps break up your outline, and lets you get away with movement you may make while positioning for a shot. This is not necessary in all trees, but where natural cover is thin, it can make a big difference.
Since I have some stands that are left in place well before the season starts, I usually jam some dead branches I’ve picked up vertically through the grated platform of the stand when I first put the stand in place. Later when I hunt them, I may take two or three additional branches picked up on the morning I hunt. These are put in place by “twining” them horizontally through the original branches I installed. Ideally, the branches will offer some cover from shoulder height downward when I am seated in the stand. You will have to experiment with branch placement when the stand is put in place. You should have room for movement, but leave nothing in the way to interfere with drawing your bow.
HITTING WHAT YOU AIM AT
This is one of the most common “last minute” situations bowhunters have to work on… target practice. Not only do you have to be able to hit what you aim at using gear you are accustomed to, you need to adapt to any new equipment you add. In my case for example, I replaced the arrows I had used for many years with new Carbon Express Maxima shafts. Their “Crossweave” shafts make them stronger without adding weight. These are great arrows, and I have had good experiences with them.
When I first took them to the range, they did not hit where the other arrows did. I expected that, and re-adjusted my sights to compensate. Later, I bought a new set of sights and I had to make another round of adjustments. I’ve had to re-sight my bow while illuminating the target with truck headlights, because I made changes in camp at night. One time I somehow lost a string silencer and replaced it in camp. The point-of-impact for my arrows immediately moved four inches to the right! The point is, do not change equipment without re-sighting.
When I get to the camp I hunt from, among the first things I do is to set up a portable target so I can practice every day. Shoot some arrows sitting on an overturned plastic bucket. Launch a few while standing and facing the target as well as from the extreme left or right positions. Even if you are on the ground, tie a safety strap to a tree and lean out one way or another. See how your arrows hit from these common shooting angles.
In closing, I’ll say that everyone faces a few last-minute challenges. Eliminate as many potential problems as you can beforehand. You owe it to the game you pursue, and each step helps insure a successful hunt.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Friday, September 26, 2008
LAST MINUTE STUFF FOR DEER - PART 1
This is part one of two parts detailing some observations I 've made over many years of hunting deer with a bow. These little things can make or break a hunt.
By: Ray Hansen
It’s coming. Starting late September in some states, the first of October in others, you’ll be able to get out in the woods in search of deer. If you are like most hunters, you begin to realize that you never quite got around to doing those small projects that can make such a great difference in the results you enjoy. In this article, I’ll pass along a few ideas that can help you overcome the negative consequences of procrastination. They will definitely provide more chances for a successful bowhunt.
“WHERE DID I PUT THOSE GLOVES”?
Get organized! How many times have you had to search high and low for some piece of essential hunting gear? Maybe you just can’t find that one item that absolutely has to go on the hunt, so you run out to try to find a replacement. There is a better way.
I store my hunting clothes (insulated camouflage coveralls, socks, face masks, gloves, red handkerchiefs, insulated vest, my “lucky” shirt, etc. etc.) in a large plastic storage container having a “snap-top” lid. It is always easy to get to, and I never have to look in ten different places to find what I need. I slide it into the back of my truck and I’m “good to go”.
THE “INSIDE-OUT” TRICK
I would not hunt without some form of scent control. Many outdoorsmen simply buy one or more sets of hunting clothes that have scent control systems in the fabric. I have an alternative that has served me quite well.
Pick a sunny, breezy early fall day, rig a temporary clothesline, and hang your hunting clothes, inside out. Get a trigger-spray bottle in about a one-quart size (the kind that uses your hand to work the sprayer, not the “one-finger” style). Also get a one-gallon refill of scent-control liquid. Sporting goods stores usually have several brand names available. In some cases, you can also get a concentrated liquid that can be mixed with water to make as much or as little as necessary.
You can see where I’m going with this exercise. Spray down all your gear and let it air dry thoroughly. On some pieces – such as coveralls – you should spray the outside as well. Wait until the inside dries however. Remember to use the scent control liquid on everything you will wear during the hunt.
I also bring a smaller (one pint) spray bottle along in the woods to do “touch-ups” as needed. Each time I head for a treestand, I also spray my face, head, neck, bare hands and boots after leaving my truck, but before entering the woods.
End of part one. Watch for part two tomorrow.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
It’s coming. Starting late September in some states, the first of October in others, you’ll be able to get out in the woods in search of deer. If you are like most hunters, you begin to realize that you never quite got around to doing those small projects that can make such a great difference in the results you enjoy. In this article, I’ll pass along a few ideas that can help you overcome the negative consequences of procrastination. They will definitely provide more chances for a successful bowhunt.
“WHERE DID I PUT THOSE GLOVES”?
Get organized! How many times have you had to search high and low for some piece of essential hunting gear? Maybe you just can’t find that one item that absolutely has to go on the hunt, so you run out to try to find a replacement. There is a better way.
I store my hunting clothes (insulated camouflage coveralls, socks, face masks, gloves, red handkerchiefs, insulated vest, my “lucky” shirt, etc. etc.) in a large plastic storage container having a “snap-top” lid. It is always easy to get to, and I never have to look in ten different places to find what I need. I slide it into the back of my truck and I’m “good to go”.
THE “INSIDE-OUT” TRICK
I would not hunt without some form of scent control. Many outdoorsmen simply buy one or more sets of hunting clothes that have scent control systems in the fabric. I have an alternative that has served me quite well.
Pick a sunny, breezy early fall day, rig a temporary clothesline, and hang your hunting clothes, inside out. Get a trigger-spray bottle in about a one-quart size (the kind that uses your hand to work the sprayer, not the “one-finger” style). Also get a one-gallon refill of scent-control liquid. Sporting goods stores usually have several brand names available. In some cases, you can also get a concentrated liquid that can be mixed with water to make as much or as little as necessary.
You can see where I’m going with this exercise. Spray down all your gear and let it air dry thoroughly. On some pieces – such as coveralls – you should spray the outside as well. Wait until the inside dries however. Remember to use the scent control liquid on everything you will wear during the hunt.
I also bring a smaller (one pint) spray bottle along in the woods to do “touch-ups” as needed. Each time I head for a treestand, I also spray my face, head, neck, bare hands and boots after leaving my truck, but before entering the woods.
End of part one. Watch for part two tomorrow.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
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