DEER SOUNDS
They Don’t Talk, but Communicate? You Bet!
By: Ray Hansen
Hunters, going back thousands of years, have understood that deer make sounds which are interpreted by other deer to mean various things. I’ve heard them many times. In this blog I’ll cite a few examples.
Hunting a remote part of Marquette County in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula with life-long friend Duane Deno of Gladstone, Michigan, we encountered three does while walking along a trail out of the woods about 11 a.m. on an October hunt. Two of the does ran off, but the third stood there gawking at us like were aliens (maybe we were to the deer)!
After a stare-down of about ten seconds, one of the does that ran off made a distinct “bleat” from about one-hundred yards away. The doe watching us immediately swiveled her head toward the sound, then bounded off to join the others. We figured that call meant “hey you… get over here!” And that is just what the doe did. Duane and I now imitate that call frequently, using commercial deer calls. Duane refers to it as the “I’m over here” call.
Recently, a company released a new call that imitates a “buck roar”. This vocalization is very rare. I’ve heard it only three times, twice on one day, and once on the following day. I was hunting an area of Illinois where only antlerless deer could be taken. After a few years of these restrictions, the deer population shifted so that it was well-balanced, meaning there were as many bucks as does. Under these circumstances, serious competition for breeding rights occurs, and fights can take place.
The first time I heard the sound, it was so loud that it startled me. My first impression was that someone who knew where I was hunting snuck out to the area and let loose with a fake roar they hoped would sound like a bear. I simply could not associate the sound with anything I’d ever heard a deer make. A while later, I heard it again, this time when a large buck charged at a smaller eight-point buck. I watched the bigger deer drive off the smaller one.
I suppose that sound meant “get out of here, or get killed”, or “stay away from the doe I’m chasing”. I heard that sound once again the following day, from the same stand, and have not heard it since. I’m not surprised about not hearing it again. As I mentioned, it is hard to find an area with the right herd dynamics that might cause bucks to roar in this way.
Most of the time when I hear deer making grunts or bleats, it is just one deer letting others know where it is. On several occasions I have had family groups consisting of a mature doe and several year-classes of small deer (mostly other does, but occasionally including a buck fawn as well) milling around a tree stand I’m in. On very quiet days, I have clearly heard them “mewing” as they browsed through the woods. They sounded a lot like cats, or certain birds.
Finally, I’ve watched deer making sounds on frosty mornings when I could see breath vapor coming out of their mouths. That is always interesting. Cold, clear and still mornings are best for this observation. One of these days I’m going to bring a video camera out to my stand and capture these events. Until then, I just listen to the way they sound, and try to imitate them when I’m calling.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Friday, December 12, 2008
TOUGH DRAGS
TOUGH DRAGS
By: Ray Hansen
As I write this piece I’m preparing to head out into the woods again tomorrow with a muzzleloader. By the time you read this I will have hiked out a mile or so in the frigid pre-dawn weather, picked a good spot, and have been sitting for a number of hours waiting for an eight-point buck to slip by in range (that is what I have tags for). And I’m going to love every second of it! The following paragraphs detail some challenges I’ve in the past getting deer out of the woods after the shot.
“I’m getting too old for this” I told myself as I pulled the big doe along using a rope attached to a shoulder harness. Dry, snowless ground made this part of the hunt a real challenge. Four or five steep ridges and a lot of flat ground stood between me and where I parked. On the steepest parts I could only manage ten feet at a time before resting. Even downhill sections were tough after a while. Several hours passed before I was able to load the large animal into my pickup. This deer was taken on a hunt in Illinois where walking in and dragging your deer out was the only option.
Of course getting the animal out of the woods is part of the hunt. I might gripe about it a little, but secretly, I’m glad I can still do it.
Sometimes the chore is made simpler with machinery. I keep an old 1981 Honda All-Terrain Vehicle in a friend’s shed here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where I hunt each year. What a great piece of engineering! It always starts (with a pull rope), gets me out into the woods quickly, and does a workhorse of a job when pulling deer out of the swamp.
My friend Duane Deno of Gladstone, Michigan also keeps an old (1978) Honda handy when we hunt. It is a very small – 90 c.c. – machine, but therein lies its utility. It can get in and out of spots that larger ATV’s can’t access.
One year I arrowed a deer on a bow-hunt in which we had to cross a one-hundred yard stretch of flooded swamp using hip boots. The footing was treacherous, and we dreaded trying to drag the deer across that beaver-flooded, marshy pot-hole.
Using some “Yooper” ingenuity however, Duane and I devised a solution. He rode his machine back into the woods to the last of the high ground before it dropped into the swamp. Using several odd lengths of rope we scrounged, we managed to create a piece long enough to span the worst part of the waterway. I am not exaggerating when I say the rope we pieced together was all of three hundred feet long. Tying one end to the Honda and the other end to the deer, he took off, skidding the doe across the water like it was water-skiing. We’ve had many good laughs about that incident over the years, and it will always be a good story to tell around the campfire.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
As I write this piece I’m preparing to head out into the woods again tomorrow with a muzzleloader. By the time you read this I will have hiked out a mile or so in the frigid pre-dawn weather, picked a good spot, and have been sitting for a number of hours waiting for an eight-point buck to slip by in range (that is what I have tags for). And I’m going to love every second of it! The following paragraphs detail some challenges I’ve in the past getting deer out of the woods after the shot.
“I’m getting too old for this” I told myself as I pulled the big doe along using a rope attached to a shoulder harness. Dry, snowless ground made this part of the hunt a real challenge. Four or five steep ridges and a lot of flat ground stood between me and where I parked. On the steepest parts I could only manage ten feet at a time before resting. Even downhill sections were tough after a while. Several hours passed before I was able to load the large animal into my pickup. This deer was taken on a hunt in Illinois where walking in and dragging your deer out was the only option.
Of course getting the animal out of the woods is part of the hunt. I might gripe about it a little, but secretly, I’m glad I can still do it.
Sometimes the chore is made simpler with machinery. I keep an old 1981 Honda All-Terrain Vehicle in a friend’s shed here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where I hunt each year. What a great piece of engineering! It always starts (with a pull rope), gets me out into the woods quickly, and does a workhorse of a job when pulling deer out of the swamp.
My friend Duane Deno of Gladstone, Michigan also keeps an old (1978) Honda handy when we hunt. It is a very small – 90 c.c. – machine, but therein lies its utility. It can get in and out of spots that larger ATV’s can’t access.
One year I arrowed a deer on a bow-hunt in which we had to cross a one-hundred yard stretch of flooded swamp using hip boots. The footing was treacherous, and we dreaded trying to drag the deer across that beaver-flooded, marshy pot-hole.
Using some “Yooper” ingenuity however, Duane and I devised a solution. He rode his machine back into the woods to the last of the high ground before it dropped into the swamp. Using several odd lengths of rope we scrounged, we managed to create a piece long enough to span the worst part of the waterway. I am not exaggerating when I say the rope we pieced together was all of three hundred feet long. Tying one end to the Honda and the other end to the deer, he took off, skidding the doe across the water like it was water-skiing. We’ve had many good laughs about that incident over the years, and it will always be a good story to tell around the campfire.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
COYOTES IN THE COLD
Author's Note: We have had another mild blizzard here in the Upper Peninsula. The snowfall was not excessive, but the blowing created a lot of drifting. I got stuck up in Rock, Michigan near the Delta County/Marquette County line, but I'm back today. I've been hearing coyotes howling in the woods near me recently, and that prompted today's blog. I hope you enjoy reading it.
COYOTES IN THE COLD
Slim Pickings in January Alters Behavior
By: Ray Hansen
I’ve encountered coyotes in the wild for many years in settings from suburbia to the Sylvania Wilderness Area in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. One of the most informative meetings we’ve had however, was while I ice-fished Mallard Lake in Bloomingdale, Illinois just west of Chicago. I believe I observed two adult coyotes teaching two juveniles how to forage for food when times are tough. This is what I saw:
January always brings some lean times for scavengers like coyotes. Most rodents are hidden deep in brush cover, birds are present only in small numbers, roadkill is rare, vegetation is scarce, and food in general is hard to find.
I had the lake to myself on this day, and my intention was to catch bluegills and crappies. I augered a series of holes in deep water not far off shore in the lake’s northwest corner. Before long I was catching small ‘gills and releasing them back into the water.
I noticed a coyote slip out of the brushy shoreline cover to the east and walk across the ice while keeping an eye on me. Another canine joined it shortly thereafter. Later they both re-entered the heavier cover along shore and I lost track of them.
Before long I watched as the two reappeared, this time with two smaller coyotes in tow. They positioned themselves at four locations – like compass points – surrounding me at a distance of about one-hundred yards away. Slowly, step by step, they converged on me from the four different directions. This seemed like a classic hunting strategy, but I really found it hard to believe they were targeting me. I think perhaps these brush-wolves had previously found small fish lying on the ice where other anglers had tossed them. They just wanted to see if I was leaving any for them.
The largest coyote approached closest. He (I’m assuming this was a male) stopped about thirty yards away, standing on a sand / gravel shoreline. There, he made what seemed to be at least a mildly aggressive maneuver by pawing and kicking sand and small rocks out onto the ice toward me like a dog will sometimes do.
At that point I stood up and banged my auger on the ice once, causing the coyotes to slink away. I stayed another couple hours, and caught glimpses of the animals at times, but they made no further close approaches.
Seems to me the adults were showing the young ones how a small pack should close in on potential prey. Of course that is just my interpretation. I did not feel threatened by their actions. I didn’t leave them any fish either. I do not think showing coyotes that humans can provide feeding opportunities is a good idea. Some people learn the hard way that leaving dog food in their backyards for coyotes simply teaches them that feeding opportunities exist where dogs are found. They’ll eat the dog food alright, and have the dog (or cat) for dessert. Local newspapers carry stories about snatched pets every year – especially during the toughest part of winter.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
COYOTES IN THE COLD
Slim Pickings in January Alters Behavior
By: Ray Hansen
I’ve encountered coyotes in the wild for many years in settings from suburbia to the Sylvania Wilderness Area in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. One of the most informative meetings we’ve had however, was while I ice-fished Mallard Lake in Bloomingdale, Illinois just west of Chicago. I believe I observed two adult coyotes teaching two juveniles how to forage for food when times are tough. This is what I saw:
January always brings some lean times for scavengers like coyotes. Most rodents are hidden deep in brush cover, birds are present only in small numbers, roadkill is rare, vegetation is scarce, and food in general is hard to find.
I had the lake to myself on this day, and my intention was to catch bluegills and crappies. I augered a series of holes in deep water not far off shore in the lake’s northwest corner. Before long I was catching small ‘gills and releasing them back into the water.
I noticed a coyote slip out of the brushy shoreline cover to the east and walk across the ice while keeping an eye on me. Another canine joined it shortly thereafter. Later they both re-entered the heavier cover along shore and I lost track of them.
Before long I watched as the two reappeared, this time with two smaller coyotes in tow. They positioned themselves at four locations – like compass points – surrounding me at a distance of about one-hundred yards away. Slowly, step by step, they converged on me from the four different directions. This seemed like a classic hunting strategy, but I really found it hard to believe they were targeting me. I think perhaps these brush-wolves had previously found small fish lying on the ice where other anglers had tossed them. They just wanted to see if I was leaving any for them.
The largest coyote approached closest. He (I’m assuming this was a male) stopped about thirty yards away, standing on a sand / gravel shoreline. There, he made what seemed to be at least a mildly aggressive maneuver by pawing and kicking sand and small rocks out onto the ice toward me like a dog will sometimes do.
At that point I stood up and banged my auger on the ice once, causing the coyotes to slink away. I stayed another couple hours, and caught glimpses of the animals at times, but they made no further close approaches.
Seems to me the adults were showing the young ones how a small pack should close in on potential prey. Of course that is just my interpretation. I did not feel threatened by their actions. I didn’t leave them any fish either. I do not think showing coyotes that humans can provide feeding opportunities is a good idea. Some people learn the hard way that leaving dog food in their backyards for coyotes simply teaches them that feeding opportunities exist where dogs are found. They’ll eat the dog food alright, and have the dog (or cat) for dessert. Local newspapers carry stories about snatched pets every year – especially during the toughest part of winter.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Monday, December 8, 2008
TACKLING DEEP WATER PERCH
Author's note: Ice fishing season is just starting here on the north end of the Great Lakes in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. The action id still in shallow water, but I can tell you from experience that winter anglers will hit deep spots as soon as the ice out there becomes safe. Here are some tactics for perch found deeper.
TACKLING DEEP WATER PERCH
Great Lakes Water Clarity Moves Fish Deeper
By: Ray Hansen
The improvement in water clarity on many bodies of water in the past ten years or so has been nothing short of amazing. Non-native invasive species such as zebra mussels that filter sediment from the water have dramatically changed their chosen habitat. Lake Michigan for example commonly has places where the bottom can be seen in fifteen feet and deeper – especially along the northernmost parts of this Great Lake.
Whereas many fishermen chasing salmon and other species that commonly suspend at some mid-point in the water column have noticed fish hold deeper, perch anglers have really seen the difference. Since they typically find these fish close to bottom, they quickly noticed dramatic changes. Catching these popular panfish in depths to seventy-five feet is now common. The same patterns can be seen through the ice.
Using lightweight lures to tempt fickle biters in shallower water still works on occasion, but much of the time you’ll have to get much deeper – especially on huge bodies of water where schools of smelt or alewives provide forage.
Using compact lures that are “heavy for their size” is the best approach to catching deep-water dwellers. Lures that have enough weight to zip down to bottom in fifty or more feet let you get your bait back in front of fish faster than a presentation that sinks slowly.
One of my favorite deep-water perch rigs is an eighteen-inch ice rod coupled with a tiny spinning reel and spooled with four-pound test monofilament line. I attach a size 2 or 3 “Swedish Pimple” spoon (Bay de Noc Tackle Company), using a very small, thin wire snap (not a snap swivel) to clip my lure to the line. The snap allows maximum lure action while jigging it to attract bites.
Use the small treble hook this lure is packaged with, and load each hook point with two or three “spikes” (maggots) as bait. This means you’ll be hooking six to nine spikes on the lure. Remember to remove a few old spikes frequently, replacing them with fresh bait. The maggots exude a milky fluid into the surrounding water when fresh, which attracts and holds perch in your spot.
The rest is simple. Let the lure plunge to bottom by opening the reel’s bail, and when it stops sinking you know it is resting on the lake’s floor. Next reel in a little line so that the lure hangs two or three feet up from the rocks, sand, or mud. As always, run a locator constantly while fishing. That shows you what level fish are holding at, and indicates when fish are approaching your lure.
Two different actions may attract fish: “shaking”, or “ripping”. Shaking is done by simply shaking the rod tip to make the Pimple “dance in place for five to ten seconds, then pausing to watch for a hit. The sequence is: shake – pause – shake – pause, until you get bit.
“Ripping “means to start just off bottom, rip the spoon upward one to three feet, then allowing it to settle back into place. Again, pause to watch for a bite. This lure is a proven perch killer, and it is especially effective when you need to work great depths.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
TACKLING DEEP WATER PERCH
Great Lakes Water Clarity Moves Fish Deeper
By: Ray Hansen
The improvement in water clarity on many bodies of water in the past ten years or so has been nothing short of amazing. Non-native invasive species such as zebra mussels that filter sediment from the water have dramatically changed their chosen habitat. Lake Michigan for example commonly has places where the bottom can be seen in fifteen feet and deeper – especially along the northernmost parts of this Great Lake.
Whereas many fishermen chasing salmon and other species that commonly suspend at some mid-point in the water column have noticed fish hold deeper, perch anglers have really seen the difference. Since they typically find these fish close to bottom, they quickly noticed dramatic changes. Catching these popular panfish in depths to seventy-five feet is now common. The same patterns can be seen through the ice.
Using lightweight lures to tempt fickle biters in shallower water still works on occasion, but much of the time you’ll have to get much deeper – especially on huge bodies of water where schools of smelt or alewives provide forage.
Using compact lures that are “heavy for their size” is the best approach to catching deep-water dwellers. Lures that have enough weight to zip down to bottom in fifty or more feet let you get your bait back in front of fish faster than a presentation that sinks slowly.
One of my favorite deep-water perch rigs is an eighteen-inch ice rod coupled with a tiny spinning reel and spooled with four-pound test monofilament line. I attach a size 2 or 3 “Swedish Pimple” spoon (Bay de Noc Tackle Company), using a very small, thin wire snap (not a snap swivel) to clip my lure to the line. The snap allows maximum lure action while jigging it to attract bites.
Use the small treble hook this lure is packaged with, and load each hook point with two or three “spikes” (maggots) as bait. This means you’ll be hooking six to nine spikes on the lure. Remember to remove a few old spikes frequently, replacing them with fresh bait. The maggots exude a milky fluid into the surrounding water when fresh, which attracts and holds perch in your spot.
The rest is simple. Let the lure plunge to bottom by opening the reel’s bail, and when it stops sinking you know it is resting on the lake’s floor. Next reel in a little line so that the lure hangs two or three feet up from the rocks, sand, or mud. As always, run a locator constantly while fishing. That shows you what level fish are holding at, and indicates when fish are approaching your lure.
Two different actions may attract fish: “shaking”, or “ripping”. Shaking is done by simply shaking the rod tip to make the Pimple “dance in place for five to ten seconds, then pausing to watch for a hit. The sequence is: shake – pause – shake – pause, until you get bit.
“Ripping “means to start just off bottom, rip the spoon upward one to three feet, then allowing it to settle back into place. Again, pause to watch for a bite. This lure is a proven perch killer, and it is especially effective when you need to work great depths.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Friday, December 5, 2008
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH - PART TWO
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH - PART TWO
By: Ray Hansen
START ON THE FLATS
My search for perch normally starts on the deeper flats near the place I found walleyes. I do not start fishing blindly however. The first thing to do is start searching for a likely spot. This is done by drilling holes and looking for perch with your locator. Team up with a friend to make this process faster. One person augers a couple holes, while the other runs the locator.
You should keep moving in a “leapfrog” fashion as you cover the area. Look for smaller, individual marks one to three feet off bottom, or a kind of “bumpy bottom” signal on the screen. Of course, some anglers use cameras to speed this process. The trick is to spend time searching instead of simply “fishing and wishing”.
USE SEARCH LURES
Since most of the perch action takes place during the day and in deeper water, I use compact and slightly heavy lures to “zip” my bait to bottom quickly. I like a size 2 or 3 Swedish Pimple spoon for this approach because it gets you back in the “strike zone” as quickly as possible.
My friend Duane Deno who fishes Little Bay De Noc in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula throughout the winter, uses this tactic as well as working the smallest Jigging Rapala lures in deep water. It is very similar to the walleye tactics I mentioned, just on a smaller scale.
THE OLD “DOUBLE BAIT” TRICK
One of the deadliest live baits for perch is the “wiggler” which is a larvae type perch can’t resist. The problem with using this bait however is that they come off the hook so easily. If you get a bite in forty feet of water, but miss the fish, you might as well reel in immediately and put another wiggler on your hook. This wastes a lot of time. Perch move frequently and you have to work them as fast as you can while they are holding on your spot.
There is an approach that can help overcome this problem. Use a Swedish Pimple with a small treble hook as an example to see how this works. Load two of the hook points with at least two “spikes” (maggots) on each one. On the remaining hook point, put one spike on “sideways” first, then impale a wiggler. The spikes are a lot tougher and much harder to pull off. Even if you lose the wiggler, you still have bait down there working for you.
FINAL THOUGHTS
After you have a lengthy line of holes drilled, it can pay to go back to your starting point to re-check for active fish. Perch move a lot, and you might find some fresh action.
Lean toward orange! This color is frequently the best choice for perch.
The higher off bottom the marks on your locator show, the better. Those perch are more actively roaming and feeding. In a related observation, if you are going to run a stationary rod with a live minnow on it while jigging a second rod, use a large minnow and set it about six feet off bottom. Perch passing below your bait are more likely to see it.
And finally, keep a confident attitude! Move until you find fish and move again when the bite slows. You’ll work harder, but you’ll catch more fish.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
START ON THE FLATS
My search for perch normally starts on the deeper flats near the place I found walleyes. I do not start fishing blindly however. The first thing to do is start searching for a likely spot. This is done by drilling holes and looking for perch with your locator. Team up with a friend to make this process faster. One person augers a couple holes, while the other runs the locator.
You should keep moving in a “leapfrog” fashion as you cover the area. Look for smaller, individual marks one to three feet off bottom, or a kind of “bumpy bottom” signal on the screen. Of course, some anglers use cameras to speed this process. The trick is to spend time searching instead of simply “fishing and wishing”.
USE SEARCH LURES
Since most of the perch action takes place during the day and in deeper water, I use compact and slightly heavy lures to “zip” my bait to bottom quickly. I like a size 2 or 3 Swedish Pimple spoon for this approach because it gets you back in the “strike zone” as quickly as possible.
My friend Duane Deno who fishes Little Bay De Noc in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula throughout the winter, uses this tactic as well as working the smallest Jigging Rapala lures in deep water. It is very similar to the walleye tactics I mentioned, just on a smaller scale.
THE OLD “DOUBLE BAIT” TRICK
One of the deadliest live baits for perch is the “wiggler” which is a larvae type perch can’t resist. The problem with using this bait however is that they come off the hook so easily. If you get a bite in forty feet of water, but miss the fish, you might as well reel in immediately and put another wiggler on your hook. This wastes a lot of time. Perch move frequently and you have to work them as fast as you can while they are holding on your spot.
There is an approach that can help overcome this problem. Use a Swedish Pimple with a small treble hook as an example to see how this works. Load two of the hook points with at least two “spikes” (maggots) on each one. On the remaining hook point, put one spike on “sideways” first, then impale a wiggler. The spikes are a lot tougher and much harder to pull off. Even if you lose the wiggler, you still have bait down there working for you.
FINAL THOUGHTS
After you have a lengthy line of holes drilled, it can pay to go back to your starting point to re-check for active fish. Perch move a lot, and you might find some fresh action.
Lean toward orange! This color is frequently the best choice for perch.
The higher off bottom the marks on your locator show, the better. Those perch are more actively roaming and feeding. In a related observation, if you are going to run a stationary rod with a live minnow on it while jigging a second rod, use a large minnow and set it about six feet off bottom. Perch passing below your bait are more likely to see it.
And finally, keep a confident attitude! Move until you find fish and move again when the bite slows. You’ll work harder, but you’ll catch more fish.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Thursday, December 4, 2008
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH - PART ONE
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH
By: Ray Hansen
I like getting out well before sunrise on winter fishing trips when I’m fishing a lake that holds both walleyes and perch. I usually have a specific target for walleyes, but perch are more scattered and require more searching. In this article I’ll pass along some details about a plan I use to catch both species.
WALLEYES ON STRUCTURE
If walleyes are found in a lake, you can usually count on a “sunrise bite” at daybreak. In most cases this feeding spree occurs on well-defined structure such as drop-offs, river mouths, rock piles, on and near fish cribs, or other distinct bottom features. Accordingly, you should have some target selected and be set up there before the sun comes up.
ATTRACT SOME ATTENTION
If you fire up your locator and it shows larger marks up off bottom, you probably have some actively feeding fish on your spot. You can work a jigging spoon such as a Swedish Pimple tipped with a minnow head, a thin slice of minnow meat, or the tail of a shiner or fat-head to entice a bite. If I intend to use a whole live minnow, I normally rig a split shot and plain hook. A spoon is “flashier” than other rigs, and can be given more action through rod manipulation. I use only pieces of minnows on them since an entire minnow throws off the spoon’s action too much.
As an alternative, run a lure like the Jigging Rapala which has a horizontal orientation as opposed to the spoon’s more vertical shape. On certain mornings walleyes will respond better to one than the other. With two anglers, run both lures to find out if a preference exists.
RATTLE IN SOME ACTION
The early morning bite is almost always “short but sweet” and as the sun gets higher, the fish become less active. You can sometimes extend this bite for an extra half-hour or so by using a noisy lure with a sharp ripping motion at five minute intervals on your spot. I have a second rod set up with a one-quarter ounce Lewis Rat-L-Trap lure for this purpose. Lower it to bottom, rip it sharply upward about three feet for several cycles, then reel it in and watch your locator. If your actions pull in any fish, you’ll see them. Jig your spoon rig with a softer action to see if you can tempt another “biter” or two. After that, it’s time to look for some perch.
End of part one - check in tomorrow for part two
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
I like getting out well before sunrise on winter fishing trips when I’m fishing a lake that holds both walleyes and perch. I usually have a specific target for walleyes, but perch are more scattered and require more searching. In this article I’ll pass along some details about a plan I use to catch both species.
WALLEYES ON STRUCTURE
If walleyes are found in a lake, you can usually count on a “sunrise bite” at daybreak. In most cases this feeding spree occurs on well-defined structure such as drop-offs, river mouths, rock piles, on and near fish cribs, or other distinct bottom features. Accordingly, you should have some target selected and be set up there before the sun comes up.
ATTRACT SOME ATTENTION
If you fire up your locator and it shows larger marks up off bottom, you probably have some actively feeding fish on your spot. You can work a jigging spoon such as a Swedish Pimple tipped with a minnow head, a thin slice of minnow meat, or the tail of a shiner or fat-head to entice a bite. If I intend to use a whole live minnow, I normally rig a split shot and plain hook. A spoon is “flashier” than other rigs, and can be given more action through rod manipulation. I use only pieces of minnows on them since an entire minnow throws off the spoon’s action too much.
As an alternative, run a lure like the Jigging Rapala which has a horizontal orientation as opposed to the spoon’s more vertical shape. On certain mornings walleyes will respond better to one than the other. With two anglers, run both lures to find out if a preference exists.
RATTLE IN SOME ACTION
The early morning bite is almost always “short but sweet” and as the sun gets higher, the fish become less active. You can sometimes extend this bite for an extra half-hour or so by using a noisy lure with a sharp ripping motion at five minute intervals on your spot. I have a second rod set up with a one-quarter ounce Lewis Rat-L-Trap lure for this purpose. Lower it to bottom, rip it sharply upward about three feet for several cycles, then reel it in and watch your locator. If your actions pull in any fish, you’ll see them. Jig your spoon rig with a softer action to see if you can tempt another “biter” or two. After that, it’s time to look for some perch.
End of part one - check in tomorrow for part two
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
THE LAST DAY - Final Installment
Final installment of “The Last Day” series
11:54 a.m.: A lone doe with one fawn walks out of the woods northeast of my stand, cuts south after passing my spot and enters the woods behind me. When I left the woods later today, I discovered a spot where these two deer had bedded down. I’ll detail this find in a note later in this journal entry.
Anyway, the pair entered an area around a stand I call “Powerline #1”. Here, two giant poplar trees with trunks bigger than you could encircle your arms around fell some years ago during a microburst wind storm.
As they collapsed, their huge branches and dense, heavy trunks smashed and ripped out an opening in otherwise heavy forest cover. They literally ripped down other large trees like skyscrapers falling onto smaller buildings.
Several years ago I discovered this place and hung a treestand in a huge cedar at the edge of the opening. I then used a chainsaw to cut the fallen poplars, which had been arching above the ground by resting on big branches that supported them like legs. Once flattened, an opening big enough to hunt was created east of the cedar I put my stand in.
12:56 p.m.: I hear a deep, single grunt from the woods behind me – just where the doe and fawn went earlier. I suspect a buck has responded to my calling and rattling and was circling downwind of the spot I called from (the Owl Stand) to try to scent check the area for the source of the calls. I’m so high up in this tree though, that my scent will pass over any deer coming up from the south (downwind) of me.
I can hear something moving in the heavier cover behind my spot, and I sure hope it is the buck that grunted! Despite the additional calls I make however, this deer does not show itself. In any case, I can’t turn far enough around on this small platform to get a shot in that direction if one presents itself. The main trunk of the tree my stand is attached to is in the way, and there is lots of heavy cover at ground level that way.
Note: Later this day when I left the woods, I walked through the woods straight behind (west) of the Owl Stand to see if I could figure out what happened. I found two fresh deer beds in the newly fallen snow about seventy-five yards away from where I had been posted. Just south of the beds, I discovered a large set of tracks approaching into the wind to scent check the spot.
The doe and fawn tracks left the beds, heading northwest, with the larger tracks following them. So the buck rousted the two bedded deer and would hound them for a while. I really think that buck was coming in to check out my calling efforts when he discovered the other two. That buck left good sized hoof prints. They seem as large as the eight-point buck I shot two years ago near here.
1:42 p.m.: A four-point buck walks into view from the north. Like the spikehorn that earlier followed roughly the same path, this small buck browses his way along, nipping at various types of woody forage. I watched this deer biting at small branch tips from trees and I think he even ate some spruce needles. This is somewhat unusual since spruce certainly is not a preferred food. This makes me recall deer I watched in Georgia one year that definitely ate needles from some species of pine tree. Of course deer up here in the northwoods eat white cedar all winter, so I guess each region has certain foods that appeal to the local herd.
2:30 p.m.: I have had enough exposure for this day. I’m stiff and my face is windburned despite the face mask I’m using. Seven and one-half hours up this tree is enough. I parked my four-wheeled all terrain vehicle about one-half mile west of here and I have to bushwhack through the woods to get there. Despite the fact that I did not kill a deer, I enjoyed this day. Muzzleloader season opens in another week and I’ll be back out again. I’ll have some new reports from that hunt.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
11:54 a.m.: A lone doe with one fawn walks out of the woods northeast of my stand, cuts south after passing my spot and enters the woods behind me. When I left the woods later today, I discovered a spot where these two deer had bedded down. I’ll detail this find in a note later in this journal entry.
Anyway, the pair entered an area around a stand I call “Powerline #1”. Here, two giant poplar trees with trunks bigger than you could encircle your arms around fell some years ago during a microburst wind storm.
As they collapsed, their huge branches and dense, heavy trunks smashed and ripped out an opening in otherwise heavy forest cover. They literally ripped down other large trees like skyscrapers falling onto smaller buildings.
Several years ago I discovered this place and hung a treestand in a huge cedar at the edge of the opening. I then used a chainsaw to cut the fallen poplars, which had been arching above the ground by resting on big branches that supported them like legs. Once flattened, an opening big enough to hunt was created east of the cedar I put my stand in.
12:56 p.m.: I hear a deep, single grunt from the woods behind me – just where the doe and fawn went earlier. I suspect a buck has responded to my calling and rattling and was circling downwind of the spot I called from (the Owl Stand) to try to scent check the area for the source of the calls. I’m so high up in this tree though, that my scent will pass over any deer coming up from the south (downwind) of me.
I can hear something moving in the heavier cover behind my spot, and I sure hope it is the buck that grunted! Despite the additional calls I make however, this deer does not show itself. In any case, I can’t turn far enough around on this small platform to get a shot in that direction if one presents itself. The main trunk of the tree my stand is attached to is in the way, and there is lots of heavy cover at ground level that way.
Note: Later this day when I left the woods, I walked through the woods straight behind (west) of the Owl Stand to see if I could figure out what happened. I found two fresh deer beds in the newly fallen snow about seventy-five yards away from where I had been posted. Just south of the beds, I discovered a large set of tracks approaching into the wind to scent check the spot.
The doe and fawn tracks left the beds, heading northwest, with the larger tracks following them. So the buck rousted the two bedded deer and would hound them for a while. I really think that buck was coming in to check out my calling efforts when he discovered the other two. That buck left good sized hoof prints. They seem as large as the eight-point buck I shot two years ago near here.
1:42 p.m.: A four-point buck walks into view from the north. Like the spikehorn that earlier followed roughly the same path, this small buck browses his way along, nipping at various types of woody forage. I watched this deer biting at small branch tips from trees and I think he even ate some spruce needles. This is somewhat unusual since spruce certainly is not a preferred food. This makes me recall deer I watched in Georgia one year that definitely ate needles from some species of pine tree. Of course deer up here in the northwoods eat white cedar all winter, so I guess each region has certain foods that appeal to the local herd.
2:30 p.m.: I have had enough exposure for this day. I’m stiff and my face is windburned despite the face mask I’m using. Seven and one-half hours up this tree is enough. I parked my four-wheeled all terrain vehicle about one-half mile west of here and I have to bushwhack through the woods to get there. Despite the fact that I did not kill a deer, I enjoyed this day. Muzzleloader season opens in another week and I’ll be back out again. I’ll have some new reports from that hunt.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
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