BIG PERCH POTENTIAL IN THE U.P.
Premier Upper Peninsula Panfishng
By: Ray Hansen
Lake Gogebic is one of the largest inland bodies of water in the state of Michigan. Running in a north – south orientation, it extends over twenty miles in a long, narrow span of waters that consist of great shoreline related weedbeds, and massive flats in the fifteen to twenty-five foot range. While it holds walleyes, pike, smallmouth bass, and various panfish species, possibilities for big perch pulls anglers from throughout the Midwest. This is one of the few places I know of that can produce mounting-sized perch as large as two pounds on occasion. Its location in the western part of the Upper Peninsula places it in an ice fishing, snowmobiling,and winter sports paradise.
I’ll never say that catching big perch is consistently easy on this body of water, although it can be. A look at the many photos of pot-bellied panfish tacked to the walls of local baitshops will have you sharpening augers and rigging rods.
Since these fish are nomadic, roaming the deeper flats during the winter and vacuuming bloodworms, larva, minnows and small crayfish off bottom, you normally need to move frequently until you locate a school of biters. A portable shanty, especially one pulled behind an ATV, lets you check lots of territory, while running a locator to pinpoint potential hotspots. Most local lodges offer lake access, and state maintained access points at parks are found in several locations. I’ll pass along some website information later in this piece.
Since you are going to “run and gun” for panfish, I recommend a rig that lets you “shoot” a bait down to the deeper flats quickly. Set up a short spinning rod (18” – 24” in length) with a small reel spooled with tough, thin, four pound test monofilament line. Tie on a size two or three “Swedish Pimple” spoon, using the small treble hook it is packaged with. Impale a “wiggler” (mayfly larva) on one hook point, and add two “spikes” (maggots) on each of the remaining hook points.
Using a “combination” bait like this offers a solid advantage: if a perch hits the wiggler but fails to hook up solidly, the wiggler is almost certainly pulled off the hook. With the spikes still there however, you have a “back-up” bait that continues to work for you. Add that to the spoon’s natural attraction and ability to get down to the “strike zone” quickly, and you have a winning combination. You need this kind of advantage while prospecting for perch.
Try the following websites for more information about the Lake Gogebic area: www.uptravel.com; www.lakegogebic.com; and www.upnorthfishing.com. Once this lake locks up solidly with safe ice, winter fishing opportunities can extend through a much longer season that waters found further south. You’ll enjoy the experience!
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2009
Showing posts with label late season perch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label late season perch. Show all posts
Monday, February 16, 2009
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
SEEING BITES WHEN ICE FISHING
SEEING BITES WHEN ICE FISHING
Tactics That Land More Fish
By: Ray Hansen
The season is on us, and for most upper Midwesterners, fishing trips between now and April mean walking out onto the frozen surface of a lake, drilling a hole, and trying to entice fish from the icy depths. People not familiar with modern ice fishing techniques often express surprise at how good the bite can be.
Despite the advancements made in gear however, it is up to the individual to pay attention while fishing, and those who watch closest, make the best catch.
Take the simple matter of knowing when a fish is biting. While a number of “bite detection” systems exist. Perhaps the most common is to attach a short strip of spring steel with an eye on it to the end of your ice rod. These attachments are sold wherever winter tackle is available.
Typically, anglers hand-hold the rod, or place it in a holder so the tip is centered over the hole in the ice. The thin sliver of steel reacts to very slight movements, and when it moves (either up or down) you probably have a fish mouthing your bait. Staring intently at the steel tip is the best way to make sure you don’t miss anything.
Wind is an enemy of anglers using spring steel “strike indicators”. It moves the steel, making it tough to tell what is going on below the ice. If nothing else, ice fishermen are innovative, and ways to block the wind (aside from sitting inside a portable shanty) abound.
One of the best solutions is to get a round plastic container like a very small bucket, a piece of thin-walled plastic pipe, or a tub that margarine or detergent might be sold in. The diameter of the piece should be at least six inches (or larger if the hole you cut is larger). If you use a container, cut out the bottom so it is now open on both ends. Also cut a narrow “U” shaped slot in one side about half-way down from the top.
The rest is simple. Place the container over the hole in the ice with the opening of the slot facing up. This forms a wind-break around the tip of your rod when it is placed into the slot. Now the spring steel strike indicator stays motionless, and you can spot bites much easier.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tactics That Land More Fish
By: Ray Hansen
The season is on us, and for most upper Midwesterners, fishing trips between now and April mean walking out onto the frozen surface of a lake, drilling a hole, and trying to entice fish from the icy depths. People not familiar with modern ice fishing techniques often express surprise at how good the bite can be.
Despite the advancements made in gear however, it is up to the individual to pay attention while fishing, and those who watch closest, make the best catch.
Take the simple matter of knowing when a fish is biting. While a number of “bite detection” systems exist. Perhaps the most common is to attach a short strip of spring steel with an eye on it to the end of your ice rod. These attachments are sold wherever winter tackle is available.
Typically, anglers hand-hold the rod, or place it in a holder so the tip is centered over the hole in the ice. The thin sliver of steel reacts to very slight movements, and when it moves (either up or down) you probably have a fish mouthing your bait. Staring intently at the steel tip is the best way to make sure you don’t miss anything.
Wind is an enemy of anglers using spring steel “strike indicators”. It moves the steel, making it tough to tell what is going on below the ice. If nothing else, ice fishermen are innovative, and ways to block the wind (aside from sitting inside a portable shanty) abound.
One of the best solutions is to get a round plastic container like a very small bucket, a piece of thin-walled plastic pipe, or a tub that margarine or detergent might be sold in. The diameter of the piece should be at least six inches (or larger if the hole you cut is larger). If you use a container, cut out the bottom so it is now open on both ends. Also cut a narrow “U” shaped slot in one side about half-way down from the top.
The rest is simple. Place the container over the hole in the ice with the opening of the slot facing up. This forms a wind-break around the tip of your rod when it is placed into the slot. Now the spring steel strike indicator stays motionless, and you can spot bites much easier.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
DEEP WATER SPOON TRICKS - Part two
Author's note: This is the final part of yesterday's blog. I'll be out on the bay Thursday and will probably use some of the tactics detailed here.
I sometimes run two rods, with a live minnow on the second. Keep this presentation simple, such as a split shot and plain hook rig. The second rod needs to “fish itself” because you are going to pay a lot of attention to the spoon while you work it. Choose a large minnow as bait since it can attract more attention that a smaller size. Two and one half to three inches is best. Remember, we are not fishing for small perch. On the other hand, running too large a minnow can attract big walleyes or pike which can shut down perch activity.
Always pay attention to the information you are getting from your locator. Be quick to raise your bait to the level of fish that show up above your bait, but be slow to lower it to fish beneath the lure. When your bait is above fish, they can see it and may rise if you use the nervous twitch I mentioned. When they do not rise upward, they are not very active and may spook easily. Maintain the shake you have been using and lower the bait slowly to their level. Stop just inches above the fish, and hope the closer presentation will trigger a hit.
Above all, think about your presentations. Try new tactics like these. Experiment. Keep moving as you search for fish. Don’t let deep water deter you, as long as it remains safe to walk on. Put some effort into your fishing. You’ll get some new stories to tell around the campfire.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
I sometimes run two rods, with a live minnow on the second. Keep this presentation simple, such as a split shot and plain hook rig. The second rod needs to “fish itself” because you are going to pay a lot of attention to the spoon while you work it. Choose a large minnow as bait since it can attract more attention that a smaller size. Two and one half to three inches is best. Remember, we are not fishing for small perch. On the other hand, running too large a minnow can attract big walleyes or pike which can shut down perch activity.
Always pay attention to the information you are getting from your locator. Be quick to raise your bait to the level of fish that show up above your bait, but be slow to lower it to fish beneath the lure. When your bait is above fish, they can see it and may rise if you use the nervous twitch I mentioned. When they do not rise upward, they are not very active and may spook easily. Maintain the shake you have been using and lower the bait slowly to their level. Stop just inches above the fish, and hope the closer presentation will trigger a hit.
Above all, think about your presentations. Try new tactics like these. Experiment. Keep moving as you search for fish. Don’t let deep water deter you, as long as it remains safe to walk on. Put some effort into your fishing. You’ll get some new stories to tell around the campfire.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Thursday, December 4, 2008
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH - PART ONE
PRIME TIME WALLEYES AND THE SEARCH FOR PERCH
By: Ray Hansen
I like getting out well before sunrise on winter fishing trips when I’m fishing a lake that holds both walleyes and perch. I usually have a specific target for walleyes, but perch are more scattered and require more searching. In this article I’ll pass along some details about a plan I use to catch both species.
WALLEYES ON STRUCTURE
If walleyes are found in a lake, you can usually count on a “sunrise bite” at daybreak. In most cases this feeding spree occurs on well-defined structure such as drop-offs, river mouths, rock piles, on and near fish cribs, or other distinct bottom features. Accordingly, you should have some target selected and be set up there before the sun comes up.
ATTRACT SOME ATTENTION
If you fire up your locator and it shows larger marks up off bottom, you probably have some actively feeding fish on your spot. You can work a jigging spoon such as a Swedish Pimple tipped with a minnow head, a thin slice of minnow meat, or the tail of a shiner or fat-head to entice a bite. If I intend to use a whole live minnow, I normally rig a split shot and plain hook. A spoon is “flashier” than other rigs, and can be given more action through rod manipulation. I use only pieces of minnows on them since an entire minnow throws off the spoon’s action too much.
As an alternative, run a lure like the Jigging Rapala which has a horizontal orientation as opposed to the spoon’s more vertical shape. On certain mornings walleyes will respond better to one than the other. With two anglers, run both lures to find out if a preference exists.
RATTLE IN SOME ACTION
The early morning bite is almost always “short but sweet” and as the sun gets higher, the fish become less active. You can sometimes extend this bite for an extra half-hour or so by using a noisy lure with a sharp ripping motion at five minute intervals on your spot. I have a second rod set up with a one-quarter ounce Lewis Rat-L-Trap lure for this purpose. Lower it to bottom, rip it sharply upward about three feet for several cycles, then reel it in and watch your locator. If your actions pull in any fish, you’ll see them. Jig your spoon rig with a softer action to see if you can tempt another “biter” or two. After that, it’s time to look for some perch.
End of part one - check in tomorrow for part two
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
I like getting out well before sunrise on winter fishing trips when I’m fishing a lake that holds both walleyes and perch. I usually have a specific target for walleyes, but perch are more scattered and require more searching. In this article I’ll pass along some details about a plan I use to catch both species.
WALLEYES ON STRUCTURE
If walleyes are found in a lake, you can usually count on a “sunrise bite” at daybreak. In most cases this feeding spree occurs on well-defined structure such as drop-offs, river mouths, rock piles, on and near fish cribs, or other distinct bottom features. Accordingly, you should have some target selected and be set up there before the sun comes up.
ATTRACT SOME ATTENTION
If you fire up your locator and it shows larger marks up off bottom, you probably have some actively feeding fish on your spot. You can work a jigging spoon such as a Swedish Pimple tipped with a minnow head, a thin slice of minnow meat, or the tail of a shiner or fat-head to entice a bite. If I intend to use a whole live minnow, I normally rig a split shot and plain hook. A spoon is “flashier” than other rigs, and can be given more action through rod manipulation. I use only pieces of minnows on them since an entire minnow throws off the spoon’s action too much.
As an alternative, run a lure like the Jigging Rapala which has a horizontal orientation as opposed to the spoon’s more vertical shape. On certain mornings walleyes will respond better to one than the other. With two anglers, run both lures to find out if a preference exists.
RATTLE IN SOME ACTION
The early morning bite is almost always “short but sweet” and as the sun gets higher, the fish become less active. You can sometimes extend this bite for an extra half-hour or so by using a noisy lure with a sharp ripping motion at five minute intervals on your spot. I have a second rod set up with a one-quarter ounce Lewis Rat-L-Trap lure for this purpose. Lower it to bottom, rip it sharply upward about three feet for several cycles, then reel it in and watch your locator. If your actions pull in any fish, you’ll see them. Jig your spoon rig with a softer action to see if you can tempt another “biter” or two. After that, it’s time to look for some perch.
End of part one - check in tomorrow for part two
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Monday, September 29, 2008
LATE FALL PIKE - PART 1
Author's note: This blog passes along some details about fishing for northern pike during the fall cold-water timeframe. Watch tomorrow for part two.
By: Ray Hansen
Anglers almost always consider pike a “bonus catch”. They seldom go out looking specifically for these freshwater predators, but big pike show up often enough that the possibility of catching one comes up frequently in conversation between anglers fishing for other species. Well… why not set up gear that appeals to the water-wolves and target them on your late-fall trips? You may be in for a real treat. In this article I’ll pass along some ideas that can help you enjoy some memorable action.
PICK WATERS WITH POTENTIAL
Pike get big when they inhabit waters with a forage base that supports growth. Examples include smelt, chubs, whitefish, suckers, small carp, and perch. Most of the time this means choosing places such as the big bays on Lake Michigan along the Wisconsin coastline, big inland lakes like Geneva or Delevan in the southern part of the state, and the large “chain-of-lakes” connected waterways in a line across the state from Eagle River to the Hayward area. Big rivers and their associated backwaters in the central part of the state are an additional source of action.
I also have a “secret” type of lake that can produce pike in the forty-inch range. These are smaller bodies of water - often 100 to 300 acres - that are loaded with undersized perch. Get in the habit of asking baitshop owners if they know of a lake where fishermen constantly complain of catching mostly “dinky” perch. That is a big clue that the lake has trophy pike potential - an opportunity many local anglers overlook. Many Upper Midwestern states have lakes like this.
Having described these waters, you’ll probably realize that when chasing pike, you will also find other species like muskies, and an occasional big walleye. Well… who is going to complain? My friend Ken Poor once landed (and released – on video) a smallmouth bass that was probably one of the largest taken in Wisconsin that year, while using these tactics.
LOOK FOR STAGING AREAS
Each body of water will have places that pike inhabit late in the year as ice-up draws closer. Examples include the mouths of inflowing rivers, deep weedlines, drop-offs near incoming creeks or rivers, logs on bottom in bays, rock piles in the same areas, the deepest extension of land points out into the lake, and artificially placed fish cribs situated at the base of sharp breaklines. In the smaller lakes I mentioned, the deepest edge of any remaining vegetation is usually best – even when the depth is as shallow as four to eight feet.
End of part one.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
Anglers almost always consider pike a “bonus catch”. They seldom go out looking specifically for these freshwater predators, but big pike show up often enough that the possibility of catching one comes up frequently in conversation between anglers fishing for other species. Well… why not set up gear that appeals to the water-wolves and target them on your late-fall trips? You may be in for a real treat. In this article I’ll pass along some ideas that can help you enjoy some memorable action.
PICK WATERS WITH POTENTIAL
Pike get big when they inhabit waters with a forage base that supports growth. Examples include smelt, chubs, whitefish, suckers, small carp, and perch. Most of the time this means choosing places such as the big bays on Lake Michigan along the Wisconsin coastline, big inland lakes like Geneva or Delevan in the southern part of the state, and the large “chain-of-lakes” connected waterways in a line across the state from Eagle River to the Hayward area. Big rivers and their associated backwaters in the central part of the state are an additional source of action.
I also have a “secret” type of lake that can produce pike in the forty-inch range. These are smaller bodies of water - often 100 to 300 acres - that are loaded with undersized perch. Get in the habit of asking baitshop owners if they know of a lake where fishermen constantly complain of catching mostly “dinky” perch. That is a big clue that the lake has trophy pike potential - an opportunity many local anglers overlook. Many Upper Midwestern states have lakes like this.
Having described these waters, you’ll probably realize that when chasing pike, you will also find other species like muskies, and an occasional big walleye. Well… who is going to complain? My friend Ken Poor once landed (and released – on video) a smallmouth bass that was probably one of the largest taken in Wisconsin that year, while using these tactics.
LOOK FOR STAGING AREAS
Each body of water will have places that pike inhabit late in the year as ice-up draws closer. Examples include the mouths of inflowing rivers, deep weedlines, drop-offs near incoming creeks or rivers, logs on bottom in bays, rock piles in the same areas, the deepest extension of land points out into the lake, and artificially placed fish cribs situated at the base of sharp breaklines. In the smaller lakes I mentioned, the deepest edge of any remaining vegetation is usually best – even when the depth is as shallow as four to eight feet.
End of part one.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
COLD WATER PERCH - PART 2
Author's note: I experienced a delay in posting this blog. I had to disconnect my computer yesterday to have new flooring installed in my office - a part of the complete remodeling of our home here in Upper Michigan. When I reconnected, the infernally slow satellite connection I have here for internet access began installing updates which took many hours and would not allow me to log on.
In any case, this is part two of the late season perch fishing blog. I hope you enjoy it.
“Disturb” the Bottom
Cast this rig out and work it by holding the rod tip high to keep the line angle as sharp as possible. Reel it in at a pace that keeps the sinker bumping bottom, trailing small “clouds” of silt as it moves along. I think this imitates the feeding action of some fish or other bottom creatures. It definitely gets perch to pay attention! You can try stopping on occasion, but in most cases I am on a search when casting this way and I want to cover water. If you can see submerged weed patches, slow your rig as you pass them.
Working Weeds
As you might imagine, there are going to be times when perch are holding in areas where too many weeds exist to use the egg sinker rig I mentioned. In this case, set up medium action spinning gear, six or eight pound test line, and tie on a Lindy “Veg-E-Jig. It will come through the vegetation cleanly, yet hook fish as effectively as a plain hook. One-sixteenth to one-eighth ounce sizes are best.
Bait for Bites
Minnows are a proven fall favorite, but half-crawlers work as well. As for leeches, try them if you want. I have found them in the bellies of perch taken while ice fishing so I know late-season fish hit them.
A good alternative is to buy frozen crayfish tails (where legal) in bulk. Each tail can be cut in strips, or used whole if you run a larger hook. Size #1 or #2 hooks are not too large for perch. Frozen tails are easy to keep in a cooler and simple to store between trips.
Scent for Success
This is one time of year when a good scent really makes a difference in your catch rate. I like those scents made from real baits – especially crayfish. Place a small amount in a plastic container on the floor of your boat so you can quickly “dip” your bait rather than trying to squirt it on.
Bring a Backup
Finally, having a good “back-up” rig can increase your catch on almost every trip. I favor a soft action six and one-half to seven foot spinning rod set up with a slip float rig. Rather than tying on a plain hook with this gear, try using a System Tackle (Lindy) “Rattl’n Hooker”. This a hook with a small “rattle tube” attached to the shank. It is also brightly colored to increase visibility.
Pay attention to the average depth of the flat you are working, and have your slip float rig pre-set to a depth common to the spot. Flip this rig out in the spot you are casting toward and let it “fish itself “. Once in a while, take in some slack and shake the rod tip to make the rattles clack a little.
In closing, I’ll say, fish aggressively! Perch roam around looking for feeding opportunities, and you need to cover water to find them. Pick large flats close to deep water and make drifts that help you cover as much area as possible. These tasty panfish will probably hold in the shallows until after the lake freezes solid.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
In any case, this is part two of the late season perch fishing blog. I hope you enjoy it.
“Disturb” the Bottom
Cast this rig out and work it by holding the rod tip high to keep the line angle as sharp as possible. Reel it in at a pace that keeps the sinker bumping bottom, trailing small “clouds” of silt as it moves along. I think this imitates the feeding action of some fish or other bottom creatures. It definitely gets perch to pay attention! You can try stopping on occasion, but in most cases I am on a search when casting this way and I want to cover water. If you can see submerged weed patches, slow your rig as you pass them.
Working Weeds
As you might imagine, there are going to be times when perch are holding in areas where too many weeds exist to use the egg sinker rig I mentioned. In this case, set up medium action spinning gear, six or eight pound test line, and tie on a Lindy “Veg-E-Jig. It will come through the vegetation cleanly, yet hook fish as effectively as a plain hook. One-sixteenth to one-eighth ounce sizes are best.
Bait for Bites
Minnows are a proven fall favorite, but half-crawlers work as well. As for leeches, try them if you want. I have found them in the bellies of perch taken while ice fishing so I know late-season fish hit them.
A good alternative is to buy frozen crayfish tails (where legal) in bulk. Each tail can be cut in strips, or used whole if you run a larger hook. Size #1 or #2 hooks are not too large for perch. Frozen tails are easy to keep in a cooler and simple to store between trips.
Scent for Success
This is one time of year when a good scent really makes a difference in your catch rate. I like those scents made from real baits – especially crayfish. Place a small amount in a plastic container on the floor of your boat so you can quickly “dip” your bait rather than trying to squirt it on.
Bring a Backup
Finally, having a good “back-up” rig can increase your catch on almost every trip. I favor a soft action six and one-half to seven foot spinning rod set up with a slip float rig. Rather than tying on a plain hook with this gear, try using a System Tackle (Lindy) “Rattl’n Hooker”. This a hook with a small “rattle tube” attached to the shank. It is also brightly colored to increase visibility.
Pay attention to the average depth of the flat you are working, and have your slip float rig pre-set to a depth common to the spot. Flip this rig out in the spot you are casting toward and let it “fish itself “. Once in a while, take in some slack and shake the rod tip to make the rattles clack a little.
In closing, I’ll say, fish aggressively! Perch roam around looking for feeding opportunities, and you need to cover water to find them. Pick large flats close to deep water and make drifts that help you cover as much area as possible. These tasty panfish will probably hold in the shallows until after the lake freezes solid.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
COLD WATER PERCH - PART 1
By: Ray Hansen
Throughout the upper Midwest and Northwoods, an opportunity exists to catch yellow perch in shallow water not far off shore, late in the open water season. Of course, once October and November roll around, many outdoorsmen are thinking about deer hunting, chasing ducks, or fall walleyes. Most do not think about fishing again until the lakes freeze over.
In this blog I’ll tell you about some tactics for catching these fish. With the unusual warm weather we have enjoyed over the past few fall seasons, you may even find yourself fishing on a comfortable day for once!
Start Your Search in Spring Spots
Fall perch movements often put them right back in places and depths you found them on opening day of the walleye season. One of my favorite spots is along the shores of a lake that has a slowly tapering flat extending out a couple hundred yards to a depth of six to nine feet, where it quickly plunges to twenty-five feet. Scattered weed patches cover the flat, rock outcroppings are found in places, and old logs provide some variety. When a stiff breeze rolls a good chop up over the drop-off and toward shore, this spot can be great.
In fact, I have shared this spot with duck hunters on occasion, and I suppose they were not glad to see me. I stay as far from their blinds as I can, and I always thought that maybe ducks avoiding my boat might pass that much closer to the hunters.
Looking for sharp breaklines parallel to shore is a good trick in the fall, since you can quickly check deep water if the shallower spots have no fish. Always be ready to switch species on fall trips as well. Your locator might reveal a school of walleyes at the base of the drop for example, and if you are prepared to work them you might take home a very nice bonus.
Use a “Stop & Go” Approach
When targeting perch at this time of year, I’ve found it best to anchor long enough to fan-cast an area in search of active fish. After about ten minutes of serious searching, pull anchor, drift a cast-length farther, and stop again. Perch school in larger numbers than walleyes, and may work the bottom in a group that faces the wind-generated current, moving into it. If you hit one fish, work that spot thoroughly, but direct every fourth cast or so to a spot upcurrent (usually upwind) from where the last fish hit.
Rig Slightly Heavy
One of my all-time favorite rigs in the situation I have described is one that leaves a trail of silt as it bumps along bottom. Tie it by setting up medium / heavy action spinning gear and thin diameter eight or ten pound test monofilament. Cortland “Cam-O-Flage” has worked well for me over the years.
Pass your line through a one-quarter or three-eighths ounce egg sinker, and tie on a medium size barrel swivel as a stopper. Next add a two-foot leader of six or eight pound test line to the remaining free end of the swivel and finish with a small floating jighead like the Northland “Gum Drop”. Bait up with a lively minnow and you're set.
As you may guess, eight or ten pound line is not necessary for perch, but it helps handle the heavier egg sinkers better and lets you pull free when the sinker snags something.
End of part one.
Return tomorrow for part two of this blog. I hope you get some ideas about late season fishing that adds something to you enjoyment of the great outdoors.
Throughout the upper Midwest and Northwoods, an opportunity exists to catch yellow perch in shallow water not far off shore, late in the open water season. Of course, once October and November roll around, many outdoorsmen are thinking about deer hunting, chasing ducks, or fall walleyes. Most do not think about fishing again until the lakes freeze over.
In this blog I’ll tell you about some tactics for catching these fish. With the unusual warm weather we have enjoyed over the past few fall seasons, you may even find yourself fishing on a comfortable day for once!
Start Your Search in Spring Spots
Fall perch movements often put them right back in places and depths you found them on opening day of the walleye season. One of my favorite spots is along the shores of a lake that has a slowly tapering flat extending out a couple hundred yards to a depth of six to nine feet, where it quickly plunges to twenty-five feet. Scattered weed patches cover the flat, rock outcroppings are found in places, and old logs provide some variety. When a stiff breeze rolls a good chop up over the drop-off and toward shore, this spot can be great.
In fact, I have shared this spot with duck hunters on occasion, and I suppose they were not glad to see me. I stay as far from their blinds as I can, and I always thought that maybe ducks avoiding my boat might pass that much closer to the hunters.
Looking for sharp breaklines parallel to shore is a good trick in the fall, since you can quickly check deep water if the shallower spots have no fish. Always be ready to switch species on fall trips as well. Your locator might reveal a school of walleyes at the base of the drop for example, and if you are prepared to work them you might take home a very nice bonus.
Use a “Stop & Go” Approach
When targeting perch at this time of year, I’ve found it best to anchor long enough to fan-cast an area in search of active fish. After about ten minutes of serious searching, pull anchor, drift a cast-length farther, and stop again. Perch school in larger numbers than walleyes, and may work the bottom in a group that faces the wind-generated current, moving into it. If you hit one fish, work that spot thoroughly, but direct every fourth cast or so to a spot upcurrent (usually upwind) from where the last fish hit.
Rig Slightly Heavy
One of my all-time favorite rigs in the situation I have described is one that leaves a trail of silt as it bumps along bottom. Tie it by setting up medium / heavy action spinning gear and thin diameter eight or ten pound test monofilament. Cortland “Cam-O-Flage” has worked well for me over the years.
Pass your line through a one-quarter or three-eighths ounce egg sinker, and tie on a medium size barrel swivel as a stopper. Next add a two-foot leader of six or eight pound test line to the remaining free end of the swivel and finish with a small floating jighead like the Northland “Gum Drop”. Bait up with a lively minnow and you're set.
As you may guess, eight or ten pound line is not necessary for perch, but it helps handle the heavier egg sinkers better and lets you pull free when the sinker snags something.
End of part one.
Return tomorrow for part two of this blog. I hope you get some ideas about late season fishing that adds something to you enjoyment of the great outdoors.
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