THE DAY BEFORE THE OPENER- 11/14/08
Today is the state-wide “Day of Anticipation” here in Michigan. The firearms portion of the state-wide whitetail deer season opens tomorrow, November 15, as it does every year. Personally, I get a bigger challenge from hunting deer with a bow and arrow than I do with a gun, but I’ll still be out there in the swamps before sunrise on the “opener” as everyone calls it.
I’ve been on the phone to my hunting partner Duane several times today, making last-minute changes to our strategy for tomorrow morning. We have been hunting together for many years, and the sense of anticipation just gets more intense each year.
We do not hunt from permanent hunting blinds like so many others in this area. Instead, we carry backpacks and sit out in the open alongside natural cover like fallen logs, uprooted tree stumps, brushpiles, or simply sitting beneath the branches of live spruce trees. In 2006 I shot a fine eight-point buck while hunting in this way.
I remember one year when I got settled in far out in the cedar swamps on the Stonington Peninsula, east of here and shot a buck within a minute or so of the legal shooting time (thirty minutes before sunrise). My season ended so fast I hardly had time to enjoy it!
This year is a little different. Most years have something that sets them apart from the rest. We will be hunting far back in the marshes and swamps well past the end of an old logging road – out in the open as usual. We will use deer calls, scent that is supposed to attract deer, and we’ll rattle antlers as we do when bowhunting. These actions are all geared toward getting a buck to pass near enough for a shot. But… if you think this is a couple hunters just trying to fool a dumb animal into making a mistake, think again. This is a hard way to hunt, and the deer are a lot better at surviving than a hunter is at killing them.
The final part of the hunt is the chance to see other hunters – Duane has five brothers – and swap hunting and fishing stories that have transpired since the last season. Glenn will bring big jars of pickled eggs up from Manitowoc, Wisconsin. We’ll sit around the woodstove out in brother Tom’s garage, Bruce, Larry, and Jim will show up on the evening of the 15th, and we will laugh, swap tales, and strategize about what we’ll do on the 16th.
I wouldn’t miss this for anything! I’ll post something on Monday the 17th. See you then.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Friday, November 14, 2008
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Rattling Bucks - First Hand Account
Author’s note: Today I am posting the text of an e-mail I received from Larry Boehm, the CEO of Brushwolf Gear, makers of the Treestand Rattl’r rattle bag. I wrote about my experiences using this product here in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in a blog a couple days ago. This note details some deer hunting experiences Larry and his brother had while hunting on public land in Minnesota. These rattle bags can attract deer. I’ve proven that to myself. The bucks mentioned here were taken within the past few days. See what you think after reading this account.
(Start of Larry’s note)
Ray:
Tomorrow I will e-mail you a picture of the bucks my brother and I took in northern MN this weekend. I'm heading to Montana for a hunt later tomorrow, but will try to get a photo and short write-up put together that I can send to my contacts. I'll give you a personal account.
We were hunting 1 1/2 miles back in public forest land that doesn't allow any motorized access, so needless to say we have NO other hunters bothering us. Temperatures on Saturday morning were mid 20's with 25-40mph NW winds, less than ideal for rattling, but the absolute perfect week to be rattling in our area.
I had a couple close encounters earlier in the week with my bow, but no luck, and this was the firearms opener, so I didn't need to bring one in quite as close. At 11:30 my brother rattled in and shot a really nice 2 1/2 year old 160 pound - 6pt (no brow tines).
I met up with him for lunch and after lunch he decided to take a bit of a stroll to warm up. I decided to climb into his stand, about 20 minutes later I saw a buck chasing a doe on the oak ridge across the drainage I was watching. I didn't figure I'd have much chance of luring him away, but had nothing to lose so I smashed my bag against the trunk of the tree as hard as I could to get his attention.
He stopped and looked my way so I started to work the bag on the ground. What happened next was unreal. He spotted my brother’s dead buck which was lying right between us and came on a dead run stopping 5 yards from it. I shot him in the heart at 30 yards. He's a massive 10 pt., 180 pound, 4 1/2 yrs old, 21 inch spread. I'll get you photos tomorrow. I guess I found a new method of decoying.
(End of Larry’s note.)
Remember that I said in my original blog, that this rattle bag comes equipped with a cord so that it can be worked at ground level even when you are in a treestand. Use it at the right time of year (usually mid-October through the end of November) and you might pull pre-rut and main rut phase bucks in close. You want that buck to focus on the source of the sounds – at ground level – and not up in the tree. This bag can offer you this solid advantage.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
(Start of Larry’s note)
Ray:
Tomorrow I will e-mail you a picture of the bucks my brother and I took in northern MN this weekend. I'm heading to Montana for a hunt later tomorrow, but will try to get a photo and short write-up put together that I can send to my contacts. I'll give you a personal account.
We were hunting 1 1/2 miles back in public forest land that doesn't allow any motorized access, so needless to say we have NO other hunters bothering us. Temperatures on Saturday morning were mid 20's with 25-40mph NW winds, less than ideal for rattling, but the absolute perfect week to be rattling in our area.
I had a couple close encounters earlier in the week with my bow, but no luck, and this was the firearms opener, so I didn't need to bring one in quite as close. At 11:30 my brother rattled in and shot a really nice 2 1/2 year old 160 pound - 6pt (no brow tines).
I met up with him for lunch and after lunch he decided to take a bit of a stroll to warm up. I decided to climb into his stand, about 20 minutes later I saw a buck chasing a doe on the oak ridge across the drainage I was watching. I didn't figure I'd have much chance of luring him away, but had nothing to lose so I smashed my bag against the trunk of the tree as hard as I could to get his attention.
He stopped and looked my way so I started to work the bag on the ground. What happened next was unreal. He spotted my brother’s dead buck which was lying right between us and came on a dead run stopping 5 yards from it. I shot him in the heart at 30 yards. He's a massive 10 pt., 180 pound, 4 1/2 yrs old, 21 inch spread. I'll get you photos tomorrow. I guess I found a new method of decoying.
(End of Larry’s note.)
Remember that I said in my original blog, that this rattle bag comes equipped with a cord so that it can be worked at ground level even when you are in a treestand. Use it at the right time of year (usually mid-October through the end of November) and you might pull pre-rut and main rut phase bucks in close. You want that buck to focus on the source of the sounds – at ground level – and not up in the tree. This bag can offer you this solid advantage.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
SETTING UP ICE LURES
Author’s note: Ice fishing season is at hand, and I know many winter anglers wait until the last minute to check their gear over. The following blog details how I set up lures I will use. These tips can easily double your catch so they are worth thinking about. You still have time, so give it a shot!
SETTING UP ICE LURES
Tricks that Easily Improve Your Catch
By: Ray Hansen
Did you know that most “panfish sized” ice fishing lures are not set up correctly to catch fish right out of the package? With a few simple modifications you can easily double the number of fish you land. In this article I’ll tell you how to set the gap, and adjust the offset of the hook so you can get solid hook-ups on many biters you would otherwise miss. These steps take only seconds.
The lures that most often need modification are the single-hook styles in sizes 6, 8, 10, and 12. Most size 4 and larger hooks have a large enough gap to hook fish well without any change. Those lures that hang vertically benefit the most from these changes, but they work with lures that hang horizontally as well.
I carry a set of inexpensive needle-nose pliers that can be found in home-improvement stores to make the changes I will detail. The pliers I like best are the “multi-tool” style hat fold open. Mine are only 2 ½” long when closed. They are always in the pocket of the insulated coveralls I wear when ice fishing.
Set the hook gap by holding the lure so the hook looks like the letter “J”. The gap is that part of the “U” shaped bend between the hook point and the longer shank. All you need do is to bend the short arm of the “J” out very slightly to enlarge or open the gap between the shank and the point.
Next is the offset. To visualize this setting, hold the lure in the upright position as it would hang in the water. Turn the lure so the point and the shank are lined up. Instead of seeing a “J” shape, you would now see a straight line or “I” shape. Next, bend the hook point slightly off to one side (either left or right of the vertical line).
By adjusting the gap and offset, the hook enters the fishes’ mouth farther, and there is less chance that the shank will hit the outside of the mouth to prevent a good hookset.
The final step is to touch up the point with a sharpener. One of the best styles is a simple “diamond blade” fingernail file. They are inexpensive, work great, and are easily available at many stores.
When you have been ice fishing as long as I have, you will find that simple steps like this are often the easiest way to improve your catch.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
SETTING UP ICE LURES
Tricks that Easily Improve Your Catch
By: Ray Hansen
Did you know that most “panfish sized” ice fishing lures are not set up correctly to catch fish right out of the package? With a few simple modifications you can easily double the number of fish you land. In this article I’ll tell you how to set the gap, and adjust the offset of the hook so you can get solid hook-ups on many biters you would otherwise miss. These steps take only seconds.
The lures that most often need modification are the single-hook styles in sizes 6, 8, 10, and 12. Most size 4 and larger hooks have a large enough gap to hook fish well without any change. Those lures that hang vertically benefit the most from these changes, but they work with lures that hang horizontally as well.
I carry a set of inexpensive needle-nose pliers that can be found in home-improvement stores to make the changes I will detail. The pliers I like best are the “multi-tool” style hat fold open. Mine are only 2 ½” long when closed. They are always in the pocket of the insulated coveralls I wear when ice fishing.
Set the hook gap by holding the lure so the hook looks like the letter “J”. The gap is that part of the “U” shaped bend between the hook point and the longer shank. All you need do is to bend the short arm of the “J” out very slightly to enlarge or open the gap between the shank and the point.
Next is the offset. To visualize this setting, hold the lure in the upright position as it would hang in the water. Turn the lure so the point and the shank are lined up. Instead of seeing a “J” shape, you would now see a straight line or “I” shape. Next, bend the hook point slightly off to one side (either left or right of the vertical line).
By adjusting the gap and offset, the hook enters the fishes’ mouth farther, and there is less chance that the shank will hit the outside of the mouth to prevent a good hookset.
The final step is to touch up the point with a sharpener. One of the best styles is a simple “diamond blade” fingernail file. They are inexpensive, work great, and are easily available at many stores.
When you have been ice fishing as long as I have, you will find that simple steps like this are often the easiest way to improve your catch.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
AVOID BOAT WINTERIZING MISTAKES
Note: Here on the upper Great lakes, many anglers are still out chasing big walleyes, and the good fishing will continue as long as open water is available. Sooner or later though, these boats will be pulled out for the season. Here are some winterizing tips:
HOW TO AVOID THE SIX MOST COMMON BOAT WINTERIZING MISTAKES
Free BoatU.S. Winterizing Guide Available ALEXANDRIA, VA
With winter approaching, BoatU.S. Marine Insurance has reviewed its claim files and reports the following six most common mistakes made when winterizing a boat:
1. Failure to winterize the engine: Freezing temperatures occur in all 50 states and while they are taken seriously up north, it's the balmy states of California, Florida, Texas, Alabama and Georgia where boaters are most likely to have freeze-related damage to engine blocks. It routinely occurs to boats stored ashore here. Boats left in a slip are less susceptible to sudden freezing as the surrounding water retains heat longer than air.
2. Failure to drain water from sea strainer: If your winterizing plan calls for draining the engine, the seawater strainer must be winterized or residual water could freeze and rupture the watertight seal. Sometimes you won't know it's damaged until spring launching and water begins to trickle in.
3. Failure to close seacocks: For boats left in the water, leaving seacocks open over the winter is like going on extended vacation without locking the house. If a thru-hull cannot be closed, the vessel must be stored ashore - the sole exception is cockpit drains. Heavy snow loads can also force your boat under, allowing water to enter thru-hulls that are normally well above the water line.
4. Clogged petcocks: Engine cooling system petcocks clogged by rust or other debris can prevent water from fully draining. If one is plugged, try using a coat hanger to clear the blockage or use the engine's intake hose to flush anti-freeze through the system.
5. Leaving open boats in the water over winter: Boats with large open cockpits or low freeboard can easily be pushed underwater by the weight of accumulated ice and snow. Always store them ashore.
6. Using biminis or dodgers as winter storage covers: A cover that protects the crew from the sun does a lousy job protecting the boat from freezing rain and snow. Unlike a bonafide winter cover, biminis and dodgers tend to rip apart and age prematurely by the effects of winter weather.To get a free copy of the BoatU.S. Winterizing Guide full of tips to help you prepare your vessel for the winter, go to http://www.BoatUS.com/seaworthy/winter, or call 800-283-2883.
HOW TO AVOID THE SIX MOST COMMON BOAT WINTERIZING MISTAKES
Free BoatU.S. Winterizing Guide Available ALEXANDRIA, VA
With winter approaching, BoatU.S. Marine Insurance has reviewed its claim files and reports the following six most common mistakes made when winterizing a boat:
1. Failure to winterize the engine: Freezing temperatures occur in all 50 states and while they are taken seriously up north, it's the balmy states of California, Florida, Texas, Alabama and Georgia where boaters are most likely to have freeze-related damage to engine blocks. It routinely occurs to boats stored ashore here. Boats left in a slip are less susceptible to sudden freezing as the surrounding water retains heat longer than air.
2. Failure to drain water from sea strainer: If your winterizing plan calls for draining the engine, the seawater strainer must be winterized or residual water could freeze and rupture the watertight seal. Sometimes you won't know it's damaged until spring launching and water begins to trickle in.
3. Failure to close seacocks: For boats left in the water, leaving seacocks open over the winter is like going on extended vacation without locking the house. If a thru-hull cannot be closed, the vessel must be stored ashore - the sole exception is cockpit drains. Heavy snow loads can also force your boat under, allowing water to enter thru-hulls that are normally well above the water line.
4. Clogged petcocks: Engine cooling system petcocks clogged by rust or other debris can prevent water from fully draining. If one is plugged, try using a coat hanger to clear the blockage or use the engine's intake hose to flush anti-freeze through the system.
5. Leaving open boats in the water over winter: Boats with large open cockpits or low freeboard can easily be pushed underwater by the weight of accumulated ice and snow. Always store them ashore.
6. Using biminis or dodgers as winter storage covers: A cover that protects the crew from the sun does a lousy job protecting the boat from freezing rain and snow. Unlike a bonafide winter cover, biminis and dodgers tend to rip apart and age prematurely by the effects of winter weather.To get a free copy of the BoatU.S. Winterizing Guide full of tips to help you prepare your vessel for the winter, go to http://www.BoatUS.com/seaworthy/winter, or call 800-283-2883.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Author’s note: I have been experimenting with calling techniques this bowhunting season as usual. In this blog I’ll describe an experience I had on Saturday, October 25, 2008 while using a device called the “Treestand Rattl’r” made by Brushwolf Gear in St. Cloud Minnesota.
YOU CAN RATTLE BUCKS!
By: Ray Hansen
The big eight-point buck slipped around the edges of the small clearing, trying to catch some scent. Hunting partner Duane Deno and I had this deer convinced that two other bucks had entered his territory. We figured he would show himself in order to drive these intruders away. Weather and atmospheric conditions however, were making it tough. Wind had gone as flat as yesterday’s soufflé and without anything to blow it away, fog built up and around our stands making it tough to see very far. Well… this was the day we had chosen to work this spot so we just had to make the best of it.
So how did we set up this strategy and the buck encounter? Actually, it was a combination of strategies – especially the careful use of sound – that culminated in the buck’s arrival.
Part of the equation was the lay of the land. We set up on a “hogback” ridge of higher ground that bisected a tag alder jungle. The ridge had maple, oak, ash, spruce, and a scattering of old apple trees that still produced fruit. Bucks generally stayed back in the alders, but would sometimes come out during the day if they thought some does were on the ridge. No trees large enough to hold treestands could be found in the jungle, so we had to set up on the ridge. Besides, that was the only place you could see far enough to tell when a deer was approaching.
We set out rut scent as part of the plan. When a light, steady breeze is present, the enticing smell swirls and streams downwind like the waters of a small brook. Under optimum conditions, deer many hundreds of yards away can detect it. We wanted them to think a “ready doe” was up on the ridge.
To make the bucks focus on a specific target in a specific spot – one that would provide a good shooting opportunity for us – we set up decoys twenty yards from our stands. The easiest I have found to use and transport are Renzo’s folding style decoys. These are photo-realistic units that fold flat about the size of a newspaper and set up in seconds. I have had bucks walk in circles around them, so I know they work. We used the “Feeder Doe” models.
The final factor was sound. To simulate two bucks sparring, I used a rattling bag called the “Treestand Rattl’r” made by Brushwolf Gear in St. Cloud, Minnesota. This is a tough, weatherproof bag that can be rolled between your hands or pounded with one hand to simulate the sounds made by bucks clashing their antlers together. The idea is to sound like two younger bucks fighting over a doe so that a larger, dominant buck might barge in to chase them away from the prize he wants to claim. The Treestand Rattl’r takes this strategy one step farther however. It is sold with a long, strong cord so that the hunter can lower it beneath his treestand and make the sound come from ground level. In that way, the arriving buck should be focusing on the lower source of the sound, not the treestand the hunter is in. This is a solid advantage the hunter needs when trying to fool an animal who spends his life out there, outwitting hunters.
So how did this hunt turn out? Well, the eight pointer I mentioned showed himself but the calm, foggy conditions made it hard to gauge his reactions since Duane could not see him too well. At the time the buck was approaching Duane’s stand, I had a doe slip out of the tag alders on my side. She cautiously circled my set-up, and when a shot became available, I took it.
The 2 ½ year-old deer was in prime condition, and I processed the venison myself. When she made a death run back into the jungle, the buck slipped away. Nevertheless, I considered the hunt a success. The buck definitely responded to our tactics and I took a very good antlerless deer. The season runs until the end of December here in Michigan and I’ll be out lots more.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
YOU CAN RATTLE BUCKS!
By: Ray Hansen
The big eight-point buck slipped around the edges of the small clearing, trying to catch some scent. Hunting partner Duane Deno and I had this deer convinced that two other bucks had entered his territory. We figured he would show himself in order to drive these intruders away. Weather and atmospheric conditions however, were making it tough. Wind had gone as flat as yesterday’s soufflé and without anything to blow it away, fog built up and around our stands making it tough to see very far. Well… this was the day we had chosen to work this spot so we just had to make the best of it.
So how did we set up this strategy and the buck encounter? Actually, it was a combination of strategies – especially the careful use of sound – that culminated in the buck’s arrival.
Part of the equation was the lay of the land. We set up on a “hogback” ridge of higher ground that bisected a tag alder jungle. The ridge had maple, oak, ash, spruce, and a scattering of old apple trees that still produced fruit. Bucks generally stayed back in the alders, but would sometimes come out during the day if they thought some does were on the ridge. No trees large enough to hold treestands could be found in the jungle, so we had to set up on the ridge. Besides, that was the only place you could see far enough to tell when a deer was approaching.
We set out rut scent as part of the plan. When a light, steady breeze is present, the enticing smell swirls and streams downwind like the waters of a small brook. Under optimum conditions, deer many hundreds of yards away can detect it. We wanted them to think a “ready doe” was up on the ridge.
To make the bucks focus on a specific target in a specific spot – one that would provide a good shooting opportunity for us – we set up decoys twenty yards from our stands. The easiest I have found to use and transport are Renzo’s folding style decoys. These are photo-realistic units that fold flat about the size of a newspaper and set up in seconds. I have had bucks walk in circles around them, so I know they work. We used the “Feeder Doe” models.
The final factor was sound. To simulate two bucks sparring, I used a rattling bag called the “Treestand Rattl’r” made by Brushwolf Gear in St. Cloud, Minnesota. This is a tough, weatherproof bag that can be rolled between your hands or pounded with one hand to simulate the sounds made by bucks clashing their antlers together. The idea is to sound like two younger bucks fighting over a doe so that a larger, dominant buck might barge in to chase them away from the prize he wants to claim. The Treestand Rattl’r takes this strategy one step farther however. It is sold with a long, strong cord so that the hunter can lower it beneath his treestand and make the sound come from ground level. In that way, the arriving buck should be focusing on the lower source of the sound, not the treestand the hunter is in. This is a solid advantage the hunter needs when trying to fool an animal who spends his life out there, outwitting hunters.
So how did this hunt turn out? Well, the eight pointer I mentioned showed himself but the calm, foggy conditions made it hard to gauge his reactions since Duane could not see him too well. At the time the buck was approaching Duane’s stand, I had a doe slip out of the tag alders on my side. She cautiously circled my set-up, and when a shot became available, I took it.
The 2 ½ year-old deer was in prime condition, and I processed the venison myself. When she made a death run back into the jungle, the buck slipped away. Nevertheless, I considered the hunt a success. The buck definitely responded to our tactics and I took a very good antlerless deer. The season runs until the end of December here in Michigan and I’ll be out lots more.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
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