This is part 2 of the blog started yesterday. It's nearly time to start bowhunting here in Michigan - the seaon opens October 1 - and I'll be using some of thee tips. Good hunting!
BREAK UP YOUR “ELEVATED OUTLINE”.
An extremely effective tactic is to conceal yourself behind some brush while in your treestand. This helps break up your outline, and lets you get away with movement you may make while positioning for a shot. This is not necessary in all trees, but where natural cover is thin, it can make a big difference.
Since I have some stands that are left in place well before the season starts, I usually jam some dead branches I’ve picked up vertically through the grated platform of the stand when I first put the stand in place. Later when I hunt them, I may take two or three additional branches picked up on the morning I hunt. These are put in place by “twining” them horizontally through the original branches I installed. Ideally, the branches will offer some cover from shoulder height downward when I am seated in the stand. You will have to experiment with branch placement when the stand is put in place. You should have room for movement, but leave nothing in the way to interfere with drawing your bow.
HITTING WHAT YOU AIM AT
This is one of the most common “last minute” situations bowhunters have to work on… target practice. Not only do you have to be able to hit what you aim at using gear you are accustomed to, you need to adapt to any new equipment you add. In my case for example, I replaced the arrows I had used for many years with new Carbon Express Maxima shafts. Their “Crossweave” shafts make them stronger without adding weight. These are great arrows, and I have had good experiences with them.
When I first took them to the range, they did not hit where the other arrows did. I expected that, and re-adjusted my sights to compensate. Later, I bought a new set of sights and I had to make another round of adjustments. I’ve had to re-sight my bow while illuminating the target with truck headlights, because I made changes in camp at night. One time I somehow lost a string silencer and replaced it in camp. The point-of-impact for my arrows immediately moved four inches to the right! The point is, do not change equipment without re-sighting.
When I get to the camp I hunt from, among the first things I do is to set up a portable target so I can practice every day. Shoot some arrows sitting on an overturned plastic bucket. Launch a few while standing and facing the target as well as from the extreme left or right positions. Even if you are on the ground, tie a safety strap to a tree and lean out one way or another. See how your arrows hit from these common shooting angles.
In closing, I’ll say that everyone faces a few last-minute challenges. Eliminate as many potential problems as you can beforehand. You owe it to the game you pursue, and each step helps insure a successful hunt.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Friday, September 26, 2008
LAST MINUTE STUFF FOR DEER - PART 1
This is part one of two parts detailing some observations I 've made over many years of hunting deer with a bow. These little things can make or break a hunt.
By: Ray Hansen
It’s coming. Starting late September in some states, the first of October in others, you’ll be able to get out in the woods in search of deer. If you are like most hunters, you begin to realize that you never quite got around to doing those small projects that can make such a great difference in the results you enjoy. In this article, I’ll pass along a few ideas that can help you overcome the negative consequences of procrastination. They will definitely provide more chances for a successful bowhunt.
“WHERE DID I PUT THOSE GLOVES”?
Get organized! How many times have you had to search high and low for some piece of essential hunting gear? Maybe you just can’t find that one item that absolutely has to go on the hunt, so you run out to try to find a replacement. There is a better way.
I store my hunting clothes (insulated camouflage coveralls, socks, face masks, gloves, red handkerchiefs, insulated vest, my “lucky” shirt, etc. etc.) in a large plastic storage container having a “snap-top” lid. It is always easy to get to, and I never have to look in ten different places to find what I need. I slide it into the back of my truck and I’m “good to go”.
THE “INSIDE-OUT” TRICK
I would not hunt without some form of scent control. Many outdoorsmen simply buy one or more sets of hunting clothes that have scent control systems in the fabric. I have an alternative that has served me quite well.
Pick a sunny, breezy early fall day, rig a temporary clothesline, and hang your hunting clothes, inside out. Get a trigger-spray bottle in about a one-quart size (the kind that uses your hand to work the sprayer, not the “one-finger” style). Also get a one-gallon refill of scent-control liquid. Sporting goods stores usually have several brand names available. In some cases, you can also get a concentrated liquid that can be mixed with water to make as much or as little as necessary.
You can see where I’m going with this exercise. Spray down all your gear and let it air dry thoroughly. On some pieces – such as coveralls – you should spray the outside as well. Wait until the inside dries however. Remember to use the scent control liquid on everything you will wear during the hunt.
I also bring a smaller (one pint) spray bottle along in the woods to do “touch-ups” as needed. Each time I head for a treestand, I also spray my face, head, neck, bare hands and boots after leaving my truck, but before entering the woods.
End of part one. Watch for part two tomorrow.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
It’s coming. Starting late September in some states, the first of October in others, you’ll be able to get out in the woods in search of deer. If you are like most hunters, you begin to realize that you never quite got around to doing those small projects that can make such a great difference in the results you enjoy. In this article, I’ll pass along a few ideas that can help you overcome the negative consequences of procrastination. They will definitely provide more chances for a successful bowhunt.
“WHERE DID I PUT THOSE GLOVES”?
Get organized! How many times have you had to search high and low for some piece of essential hunting gear? Maybe you just can’t find that one item that absolutely has to go on the hunt, so you run out to try to find a replacement. There is a better way.
I store my hunting clothes (insulated camouflage coveralls, socks, face masks, gloves, red handkerchiefs, insulated vest, my “lucky” shirt, etc. etc.) in a large plastic storage container having a “snap-top” lid. It is always easy to get to, and I never have to look in ten different places to find what I need. I slide it into the back of my truck and I’m “good to go”.
THE “INSIDE-OUT” TRICK
I would not hunt without some form of scent control. Many outdoorsmen simply buy one or more sets of hunting clothes that have scent control systems in the fabric. I have an alternative that has served me quite well.
Pick a sunny, breezy early fall day, rig a temporary clothesline, and hang your hunting clothes, inside out. Get a trigger-spray bottle in about a one-quart size (the kind that uses your hand to work the sprayer, not the “one-finger” style). Also get a one-gallon refill of scent-control liquid. Sporting goods stores usually have several brand names available. In some cases, you can also get a concentrated liquid that can be mixed with water to make as much or as little as necessary.
You can see where I’m going with this exercise. Spray down all your gear and let it air dry thoroughly. On some pieces – such as coveralls – you should spray the outside as well. Wait until the inside dries however. Remember to use the scent control liquid on everything you will wear during the hunt.
I also bring a smaller (one pint) spray bottle along in the woods to do “touch-ups” as needed. Each time I head for a treestand, I also spray my face, head, neck, bare hands and boots after leaving my truck, but before entering the woods.
End of part one. Watch for part two tomorrow.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
COLD WATER PERCH - PART 2
Author's note: I experienced a delay in posting this blog. I had to disconnect my computer yesterday to have new flooring installed in my office - a part of the complete remodeling of our home here in Upper Michigan. When I reconnected, the infernally slow satellite connection I have here for internet access began installing updates which took many hours and would not allow me to log on.
In any case, this is part two of the late season perch fishing blog. I hope you enjoy it.
“Disturb” the Bottom
Cast this rig out and work it by holding the rod tip high to keep the line angle as sharp as possible. Reel it in at a pace that keeps the sinker bumping bottom, trailing small “clouds” of silt as it moves along. I think this imitates the feeding action of some fish or other bottom creatures. It definitely gets perch to pay attention! You can try stopping on occasion, but in most cases I am on a search when casting this way and I want to cover water. If you can see submerged weed patches, slow your rig as you pass them.
Working Weeds
As you might imagine, there are going to be times when perch are holding in areas where too many weeds exist to use the egg sinker rig I mentioned. In this case, set up medium action spinning gear, six or eight pound test line, and tie on a Lindy “Veg-E-Jig. It will come through the vegetation cleanly, yet hook fish as effectively as a plain hook. One-sixteenth to one-eighth ounce sizes are best.
Bait for Bites
Minnows are a proven fall favorite, but half-crawlers work as well. As for leeches, try them if you want. I have found them in the bellies of perch taken while ice fishing so I know late-season fish hit them.
A good alternative is to buy frozen crayfish tails (where legal) in bulk. Each tail can be cut in strips, or used whole if you run a larger hook. Size #1 or #2 hooks are not too large for perch. Frozen tails are easy to keep in a cooler and simple to store between trips.
Scent for Success
This is one time of year when a good scent really makes a difference in your catch rate. I like those scents made from real baits – especially crayfish. Place a small amount in a plastic container on the floor of your boat so you can quickly “dip” your bait rather than trying to squirt it on.
Bring a Backup
Finally, having a good “back-up” rig can increase your catch on almost every trip. I favor a soft action six and one-half to seven foot spinning rod set up with a slip float rig. Rather than tying on a plain hook with this gear, try using a System Tackle (Lindy) “Rattl’n Hooker”. This a hook with a small “rattle tube” attached to the shank. It is also brightly colored to increase visibility.
Pay attention to the average depth of the flat you are working, and have your slip float rig pre-set to a depth common to the spot. Flip this rig out in the spot you are casting toward and let it “fish itself “. Once in a while, take in some slack and shake the rod tip to make the rattles clack a little.
In closing, I’ll say, fish aggressively! Perch roam around looking for feeding opportunities, and you need to cover water to find them. Pick large flats close to deep water and make drifts that help you cover as much area as possible. These tasty panfish will probably hold in the shallows until after the lake freezes solid.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
In any case, this is part two of the late season perch fishing blog. I hope you enjoy it.
“Disturb” the Bottom
Cast this rig out and work it by holding the rod tip high to keep the line angle as sharp as possible. Reel it in at a pace that keeps the sinker bumping bottom, trailing small “clouds” of silt as it moves along. I think this imitates the feeding action of some fish or other bottom creatures. It definitely gets perch to pay attention! You can try stopping on occasion, but in most cases I am on a search when casting this way and I want to cover water. If you can see submerged weed patches, slow your rig as you pass them.
Working Weeds
As you might imagine, there are going to be times when perch are holding in areas where too many weeds exist to use the egg sinker rig I mentioned. In this case, set up medium action spinning gear, six or eight pound test line, and tie on a Lindy “Veg-E-Jig. It will come through the vegetation cleanly, yet hook fish as effectively as a plain hook. One-sixteenth to one-eighth ounce sizes are best.
Bait for Bites
Minnows are a proven fall favorite, but half-crawlers work as well. As for leeches, try them if you want. I have found them in the bellies of perch taken while ice fishing so I know late-season fish hit them.
A good alternative is to buy frozen crayfish tails (where legal) in bulk. Each tail can be cut in strips, or used whole if you run a larger hook. Size #1 or #2 hooks are not too large for perch. Frozen tails are easy to keep in a cooler and simple to store between trips.
Scent for Success
This is one time of year when a good scent really makes a difference in your catch rate. I like those scents made from real baits – especially crayfish. Place a small amount in a plastic container on the floor of your boat so you can quickly “dip” your bait rather than trying to squirt it on.
Bring a Backup
Finally, having a good “back-up” rig can increase your catch on almost every trip. I favor a soft action six and one-half to seven foot spinning rod set up with a slip float rig. Rather than tying on a plain hook with this gear, try using a System Tackle (Lindy) “Rattl’n Hooker”. This a hook with a small “rattle tube” attached to the shank. It is also brightly colored to increase visibility.
Pay attention to the average depth of the flat you are working, and have your slip float rig pre-set to a depth common to the spot. Flip this rig out in the spot you are casting toward and let it “fish itself “. Once in a while, take in some slack and shake the rod tip to make the rattles clack a little.
In closing, I’ll say, fish aggressively! Perch roam around looking for feeding opportunities, and you need to cover water to find them. Pick large flats close to deep water and make drifts that help you cover as much area as possible. These tasty panfish will probably hold in the shallows until after the lake freezes solid.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
COLD WATER PERCH - PART 1
By: Ray Hansen
Throughout the upper Midwest and Northwoods, an opportunity exists to catch yellow perch in shallow water not far off shore, late in the open water season. Of course, once October and November roll around, many outdoorsmen are thinking about deer hunting, chasing ducks, or fall walleyes. Most do not think about fishing again until the lakes freeze over.
In this blog I’ll tell you about some tactics for catching these fish. With the unusual warm weather we have enjoyed over the past few fall seasons, you may even find yourself fishing on a comfortable day for once!
Start Your Search in Spring Spots
Fall perch movements often put them right back in places and depths you found them on opening day of the walleye season. One of my favorite spots is along the shores of a lake that has a slowly tapering flat extending out a couple hundred yards to a depth of six to nine feet, where it quickly plunges to twenty-five feet. Scattered weed patches cover the flat, rock outcroppings are found in places, and old logs provide some variety. When a stiff breeze rolls a good chop up over the drop-off and toward shore, this spot can be great.
In fact, I have shared this spot with duck hunters on occasion, and I suppose they were not glad to see me. I stay as far from their blinds as I can, and I always thought that maybe ducks avoiding my boat might pass that much closer to the hunters.
Looking for sharp breaklines parallel to shore is a good trick in the fall, since you can quickly check deep water if the shallower spots have no fish. Always be ready to switch species on fall trips as well. Your locator might reveal a school of walleyes at the base of the drop for example, and if you are prepared to work them you might take home a very nice bonus.
Use a “Stop & Go” Approach
When targeting perch at this time of year, I’ve found it best to anchor long enough to fan-cast an area in search of active fish. After about ten minutes of serious searching, pull anchor, drift a cast-length farther, and stop again. Perch school in larger numbers than walleyes, and may work the bottom in a group that faces the wind-generated current, moving into it. If you hit one fish, work that spot thoroughly, but direct every fourth cast or so to a spot upcurrent (usually upwind) from where the last fish hit.
Rig Slightly Heavy
One of my all-time favorite rigs in the situation I have described is one that leaves a trail of silt as it bumps along bottom. Tie it by setting up medium / heavy action spinning gear and thin diameter eight or ten pound test monofilament. Cortland “Cam-O-Flage” has worked well for me over the years.
Pass your line through a one-quarter or three-eighths ounce egg sinker, and tie on a medium size barrel swivel as a stopper. Next add a two-foot leader of six or eight pound test line to the remaining free end of the swivel and finish with a small floating jighead like the Northland “Gum Drop”. Bait up with a lively minnow and you're set.
As you may guess, eight or ten pound line is not necessary for perch, but it helps handle the heavier egg sinkers better and lets you pull free when the sinker snags something.
End of part one.
Return tomorrow for part two of this blog. I hope you get some ideas about late season fishing that adds something to you enjoyment of the great outdoors.
Throughout the upper Midwest and Northwoods, an opportunity exists to catch yellow perch in shallow water not far off shore, late in the open water season. Of course, once October and November roll around, many outdoorsmen are thinking about deer hunting, chasing ducks, or fall walleyes. Most do not think about fishing again until the lakes freeze over.
In this blog I’ll tell you about some tactics for catching these fish. With the unusual warm weather we have enjoyed over the past few fall seasons, you may even find yourself fishing on a comfortable day for once!
Start Your Search in Spring Spots
Fall perch movements often put them right back in places and depths you found them on opening day of the walleye season. One of my favorite spots is along the shores of a lake that has a slowly tapering flat extending out a couple hundred yards to a depth of six to nine feet, where it quickly plunges to twenty-five feet. Scattered weed patches cover the flat, rock outcroppings are found in places, and old logs provide some variety. When a stiff breeze rolls a good chop up over the drop-off and toward shore, this spot can be great.
In fact, I have shared this spot with duck hunters on occasion, and I suppose they were not glad to see me. I stay as far from their blinds as I can, and I always thought that maybe ducks avoiding my boat might pass that much closer to the hunters.
Looking for sharp breaklines parallel to shore is a good trick in the fall, since you can quickly check deep water if the shallower spots have no fish. Always be ready to switch species on fall trips as well. Your locator might reveal a school of walleyes at the base of the drop for example, and if you are prepared to work them you might take home a very nice bonus.
Use a “Stop & Go” Approach
When targeting perch at this time of year, I’ve found it best to anchor long enough to fan-cast an area in search of active fish. After about ten minutes of serious searching, pull anchor, drift a cast-length farther, and stop again. Perch school in larger numbers than walleyes, and may work the bottom in a group that faces the wind-generated current, moving into it. If you hit one fish, work that spot thoroughly, but direct every fourth cast or so to a spot upcurrent (usually upwind) from where the last fish hit.
Rig Slightly Heavy
One of my all-time favorite rigs in the situation I have described is one that leaves a trail of silt as it bumps along bottom. Tie it by setting up medium / heavy action spinning gear and thin diameter eight or ten pound test monofilament. Cortland “Cam-O-Flage” has worked well for me over the years.
Pass your line through a one-quarter or three-eighths ounce egg sinker, and tie on a medium size barrel swivel as a stopper. Next add a two-foot leader of six or eight pound test line to the remaining free end of the swivel and finish with a small floating jighead like the Northland “Gum Drop”. Bait up with a lively minnow and you're set.
As you may guess, eight or ten pound line is not necessary for perch, but it helps handle the heavier egg sinkers better and lets you pull free when the sinker snags something.
End of part one.
Return tomorrow for part two of this blog. I hope you get some ideas about late season fishing that adds something to you enjoyment of the great outdoors.
Monday, September 22, 2008
YOU CAN RATTLE IN BUCKS!
By: Ray Hansen
If one question exists that immediately provokes a love/hate response from hunters, it is: “Have you had any luck rattling in deer?” Some will say it has worked for them and they continue to try it occasionally, while others will say it has never done anything for them and that they have given up trying that strategy. Maybe I can help make some sense of this “deer calling” tactic.
Lets begin with a look at what “rattling” is. In the simplest form, it is the use of a pair of deer antlers, rattled together, to imitate the sound of two bucks lightly sparring on one end of the spectrum or in a death struggle at the other extreme. This is done in hopes of attracting nearby bucks to the sound and providing a clean shot as they move around looking for the bucks they think must be close. For safety reasons, rattling is mainly used when bow hunting. In addition to regular antlers, synthetic antlers, and “rattle bags” are used to produce these sounds.
Many believe that rattling is more successful in southern states like Texas, but I – and many others – have used it to attract and kill deer in northern states such as Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Herd dynamics such as the buck to doe ratio likely have more to do with successful rattling than the area of the country in which it is used. Bottom line: it is worth using anywhere deer are found.
I carry a rattle bag because it is more portable than antlers, and I feel it can be just as effective. As a side note, because I take many things with me when bow hunting, I use a small backpack to keep things handy and to keep at least one hand free since I have to carry my bow as well. This year I will be using a new style bag called the “Treestand Rattl’r” made by Brushwolf Gear of St. Cloud, Minnesota (www.brushwolfgear.com).
Larry Boehm, CEO of Brushwolf and an avid deer hunter passed along a few tips about how to stack the odds in your favor. First off, the Treestand Rattl’r is sold with a detachable thirty-foot cord so that it can be lowered to ground level from an elevated position and manipulated with the cord so the sound is contained at the ground. That may prevent a buck from looking upward for the source of the rattling it hears, and discovering you in the tree.
Larry says he has enjoyed the best results rattling from mid-October to Mid-November in northern states, but that it has also attracted curious bucks in September. He places a log or branch at the base of the tree he is hunting from, in a spot where he can bang the bag against it for maximum volume. He also swings the bag out on the cord several feet from the tree then drags it back in to create additional attractive noise.
Here is something I have learned: at times you will try rattling because you are not seeing any deer and you hope to attract one into range. Remember that bucks will often circle downwind of the sounds to scent-check the area before coming in. For this reason, use “blind rattling” from a stand that deer will have difficulty approaching from downwind. One at the base of a bluff, one with an open area downwind, a place with a river downwind or similar obstruction in that direction are examples.
In other cases, you may spot a deer passing well out of effective bow range, and you may try to pull him closer by rattling. I carry binoculars so I can get a good look at how the noise affects that particular buck, and let that information help me to decide whether to continue rattling or to wait a while.
Finally, you may experience a day when deer are just not moving, so you decide to rattle at regular intervals – say every half hour just to see if you can pull one in that would have otherwise not passed by your stand. I once rattled in a nice eight-point buck this way, on the fifth rattling sequence I completed. I elected not to take that one, but he stayed around my stand for twenty minutes trying to find his perceived rivals!
In any case, check out Brushwolf’s website for additional tips and try rattling again or for the first time this year. Maybe you’ll be the one with a few new stories to tell around the campfire this hunting season.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
If one question exists that immediately provokes a love/hate response from hunters, it is: “Have you had any luck rattling in deer?” Some will say it has worked for them and they continue to try it occasionally, while others will say it has never done anything for them and that they have given up trying that strategy. Maybe I can help make some sense of this “deer calling” tactic.
Lets begin with a look at what “rattling” is. In the simplest form, it is the use of a pair of deer antlers, rattled together, to imitate the sound of two bucks lightly sparring on one end of the spectrum or in a death struggle at the other extreme. This is done in hopes of attracting nearby bucks to the sound and providing a clean shot as they move around looking for the bucks they think must be close. For safety reasons, rattling is mainly used when bow hunting. In addition to regular antlers, synthetic antlers, and “rattle bags” are used to produce these sounds.
Many believe that rattling is more successful in southern states like Texas, but I – and many others – have used it to attract and kill deer in northern states such as Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Herd dynamics such as the buck to doe ratio likely have more to do with successful rattling than the area of the country in which it is used. Bottom line: it is worth using anywhere deer are found.
I carry a rattle bag because it is more portable than antlers, and I feel it can be just as effective. As a side note, because I take many things with me when bow hunting, I use a small backpack to keep things handy and to keep at least one hand free since I have to carry my bow as well. This year I will be using a new style bag called the “Treestand Rattl’r” made by Brushwolf Gear of St. Cloud, Minnesota (www.brushwolfgear.com).
Larry Boehm, CEO of Brushwolf and an avid deer hunter passed along a few tips about how to stack the odds in your favor. First off, the Treestand Rattl’r is sold with a detachable thirty-foot cord so that it can be lowered to ground level from an elevated position and manipulated with the cord so the sound is contained at the ground. That may prevent a buck from looking upward for the source of the rattling it hears, and discovering you in the tree.
Larry says he has enjoyed the best results rattling from mid-October to Mid-November in northern states, but that it has also attracted curious bucks in September. He places a log or branch at the base of the tree he is hunting from, in a spot where he can bang the bag against it for maximum volume. He also swings the bag out on the cord several feet from the tree then drags it back in to create additional attractive noise.
Here is something I have learned: at times you will try rattling because you are not seeing any deer and you hope to attract one into range. Remember that bucks will often circle downwind of the sounds to scent-check the area before coming in. For this reason, use “blind rattling” from a stand that deer will have difficulty approaching from downwind. One at the base of a bluff, one with an open area downwind, a place with a river downwind or similar obstruction in that direction are examples.
In other cases, you may spot a deer passing well out of effective bow range, and you may try to pull him closer by rattling. I carry binoculars so I can get a good look at how the noise affects that particular buck, and let that information help me to decide whether to continue rattling or to wait a while.
Finally, you may experience a day when deer are just not moving, so you decide to rattle at regular intervals – say every half hour just to see if you can pull one in that would have otherwise not passed by your stand. I once rattled in a nice eight-point buck this way, on the fifth rattling sequence I completed. I elected not to take that one, but he stayed around my stand for twenty minutes trying to find his perceived rivals!
In any case, check out Brushwolf’s website for additional tips and try rattling again or for the first time this year. Maybe you’ll be the one with a few new stories to tell around the campfire this hunting season.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
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