This is the final installment of the blog about our hike along the Escanaba River. I hope you enjoy it.
By: Ray Hansen
CONSISTENT WATER SOURCES
The artesian wells do not seem to be affected by drought. When other sources run low, they continue to flow. I remember the drought of 1976. We owned an eighty-acre tract east of here on the Stonington Peninsula, about 35 miles away. On that piece of land, we found a big spring that held water when most other sources dried to dust. Deer from miles around visited that spring and wore “cow paths” into the earth leading to the water.
BEARS PARADISE
I recall taking a long, straight cedar pole and using it to try to see how deep the spring was, but the pole went straight down and found no resistance. Its outflow was not too large – probably four feet across – and it must have been connected to an open water source somewhere because I could see small fish in it at times. A cranberry bog was situated farther east, that had open water visible out toward its middle. The ground around the open water was composed entirely of spongy, intertwined bog plant roots. Approaching the water was impossible because you would simply sink through the roots and become mired in them. Deer especially, were unsuited for trying to move through the spot since their legs are too thin. Bears though, liked the sour berries and simply flopped in and wallowed along to get to them.
COPPER COUNTRY HIGHWAY
Archaeologists have determined that this river (the Escanaba River) was one of the major routes leading from Lake Michigan northwest to the Copper Country area on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Many ancient people travelled there to gather copper because it is one of the very few places in the world where this metal could be literally picked up on the surface or mined from shallow excavations, in a form pure enough to use without any refining. Technology has now advanced enough to determine where raw metals originated, and Upper Peninsula copper has been found over a wide part of the country, partly due to trading between tribes, but also from groups traveling to the area seasonally to gather it. Many ancient shallow pit mines were found on Isle Royal in Lake Superior, and have been extensively studied and documented over they years. Some date back many thousands of years.
EAGLE VISITS
On our hike, we watched one of the resident eagles pass by several times. The big bird would not fly directly above us, but he has a series of trees he stops in along the course of the river. They are usually pines, and each has a sort of flat top that lets the majestic bird survey the surroundings from an unobstructed point. These trees are also close to the water’s edge so he can watch for fish. The other fish-eaters that visit are ospreys and kingfishers. All are a real treat to watch as they forage along the waterway and occasionally dive-bomb fish. So far, the osprey has captured the largest fish that I witnessed. It looked like a twelve to fourteen inch brown trout through binoculars.
So our river walks will continue through this fall. Starting October first, I’ll be bowhunting for deer, and this will take up some of my time. The trees along the river have started changing color. Kate and I will enjoy some excellent photo opportunities when the maples, poplar, beech, ironwood, cottonwood, and ash compete to see which can display the most vivid colors.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Friday, September 12, 2008
Thursday, September 11, 2008
RIVER WALK - PART 3
This is part 3 of the River Walk series. Watch for the last installment tomorrow.
By: Ray Hansen
ARROWHEAD ROCKS
In another place we found scattered rocks of a glassy composition that had been rolled smooth with the current. Perhaps they were agate, flint, chalcedony, or chert. We pocketed a few to put in the water fountain Kate installed in front of the house.
These are the types of stone Native Americans sought when in need of more arrowheads, knives, and scrapers. They were able to strike one rock against the other with a glancing blow that resulted in sharp-edged flakes shearing off. With a little pressure applied to the edge of the flakes with the tip of one tine from a deer antler, they shaped tools needed to cut wood, butcher a deer, cut wood shafts for arrows, and to fashion a bow to shoot them with. The art of making these implements has not been completely lost; it is practiced at local gatherings by modern “flintknappers” who keep the old traditions alive. Beautifully crafted arrowheads result from their work, and they sell enough to make this pastime profitable.
INDIAN CAMPSITES
On our Labor Day hike we did not find evidence of ancient campsites as I have encountered on trips to other places, but I’m confident I will find at least a few of these sites near here. Rivers were like highways in the days before farmers, miners, and loggers opened up this country. Indians lived, hunted, and traveled along the same waterways that exist today.
The basic requirements for a campsite were higher ground close to the river, with access to flowing springs being a bonus. The springs provide very cold, clear water that is probably more desirable to drink and cook with than straight river water, though both would have been usable. On our hike, Kate and I explored a spring flowing out of the bank several feet above the current water level. The water was crystal clear while the river itself has an “iced tea” color due to a high tannin content caused by draining massive cedar swamps upstream. The spring water was much colder than the river as well. It would have been a much more refreshing drink.
FINDING FREE-FLOWING WELLS
Several of our neighbors have artesian wells on their properties, since springs are so common here. These wells are a simple pipe driven into the ground, from which water begins flowing without the need for a pump. Sometimes, people simply try spots at random, to see if they might strike a free-flowing well. Most though, rely on a “dowser” to find the right spot for them.
My friend “Z” down the road is skilled in this arcane art. He simply makes a slow walk around the property while holding a pair of copper rods that look like the letter “L”, one in each hand. Grasping the short leg of the rod, he points the long leg of the rod straight out in the direction he is moving. When the rods swing into a crossed position like the letter “X”, he has found the spot. It is said that one hundred people can try this, but just one will consistently be able to find a spot that will produce flowing water.
See you tomorrow with part 4.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
ARROWHEAD ROCKS
In another place we found scattered rocks of a glassy composition that had been rolled smooth with the current. Perhaps they were agate, flint, chalcedony, or chert. We pocketed a few to put in the water fountain Kate installed in front of the house.
These are the types of stone Native Americans sought when in need of more arrowheads, knives, and scrapers. They were able to strike one rock against the other with a glancing blow that resulted in sharp-edged flakes shearing off. With a little pressure applied to the edge of the flakes with the tip of one tine from a deer antler, they shaped tools needed to cut wood, butcher a deer, cut wood shafts for arrows, and to fashion a bow to shoot them with. The art of making these implements has not been completely lost; it is practiced at local gatherings by modern “flintknappers” who keep the old traditions alive. Beautifully crafted arrowheads result from their work, and they sell enough to make this pastime profitable.
INDIAN CAMPSITES
On our Labor Day hike we did not find evidence of ancient campsites as I have encountered on trips to other places, but I’m confident I will find at least a few of these sites near here. Rivers were like highways in the days before farmers, miners, and loggers opened up this country. Indians lived, hunted, and traveled along the same waterways that exist today.
The basic requirements for a campsite were higher ground close to the river, with access to flowing springs being a bonus. The springs provide very cold, clear water that is probably more desirable to drink and cook with than straight river water, though both would have been usable. On our hike, Kate and I explored a spring flowing out of the bank several feet above the current water level. The water was crystal clear while the river itself has an “iced tea” color due to a high tannin content caused by draining massive cedar swamps upstream. The spring water was much colder than the river as well. It would have been a much more refreshing drink.
FINDING FREE-FLOWING WELLS
Several of our neighbors have artesian wells on their properties, since springs are so common here. These wells are a simple pipe driven into the ground, from which water begins flowing without the need for a pump. Sometimes, people simply try spots at random, to see if they might strike a free-flowing well. Most though, rely on a “dowser” to find the right spot for them.
My friend “Z” down the road is skilled in this arcane art. He simply makes a slow walk around the property while holding a pair of copper rods that look like the letter “L”, one in each hand. Grasping the short leg of the rod, he points the long leg of the rod straight out in the direction he is moving. When the rods swing into a crossed position like the letter “X”, he has found the spot. It is said that one hundred people can try this, but just one will consistently be able to find a spot that will produce flowing water.
See you tomorrow with part 4.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
RIVER WALK - PART 2
Here is part two of our Labor Day hike report. Watch tomorrow for part 3, and thanks for reading my reports.
By: Ray Hansen
DAM LEAKS
So, one dam upstream and another downstream harness the river’s power and maintain a water level that keeps the scenery pleasant for me. Last week the power company running the upstream dam decided that some work needed to be done there since they have detected several leaks around the dam’s base. To gauge the extent of the problem they need to lower the level of the reservoir behind the dam sixteen feet, which they feel would expose the source of the leaks.
This happened several years ago as well. They lowered the water level at that time and inspected the exposed river bed above the dam, along with the retaining structure itself but could not find the source of the leakage. I’m not sure what is different now… maybe they have some new “leak detection” technology. They seem confident that this current attempt will be successful.
RIVER RUNS LOW
In any case, we had very little rain during August and river levels were at a low point. This is the time to get down there and walk the river corridor, so on Labor Day my wife Kate and I did just that.
As beautiful and scenic as the river is, not many people take advantage of the opportunity to explore it. That is mainly because little public access exists along the waterway. I’ll tell you what though, if I was a kid living up here now I’d be riding my bike down to the river with a fishing rod strapped to the handlebars. You can walk along the bank watching for deeper pools, knowing that they will hold ever-increasing numbers of bass and trout as the water level drops. Years ago, my friends and I did just that, bringing along an old army surplus mess kit and cooking fresh fish over a small driftwood fire. Sometimes one of the guys would smuggle a pound of bacon out of their house so we could fry that first to provide smoky, aromatic, sizzling oil to lay the freshly cleaned trout in.
Now of course, all I have to do is walk out the back door, get down to the river via an old set of stone steps behind the neighbor’s place, and start hiking. I thoroughly enjoy the fact that I’m not going to see anyone else, and will share my walk only with eagles, deer, ospreys, an occasional coyote, and the fish.
LABOR DAY STROLL
On our Labor Day hike, Kate and I strolled along shooting photos of leaves floating past, of crayfish we spotted in the shallows, of small sculpins finning in slow current areas, and simple landscape shots where we could include bends in the river as part of the composition. We found wonderful pieces of natural driftwood art: one that looked like the head and horns of an antelope; another that resembled a saguaro cactus; a beautiful arching cedar trunk de-limbed by tumbling along the rocky watercourse; and a sawn stump with roots spiraling out like octopus arms.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
By: Ray Hansen
DAM LEAKS
So, one dam upstream and another downstream harness the river’s power and maintain a water level that keeps the scenery pleasant for me. Last week the power company running the upstream dam decided that some work needed to be done there since they have detected several leaks around the dam’s base. To gauge the extent of the problem they need to lower the level of the reservoir behind the dam sixteen feet, which they feel would expose the source of the leaks.
This happened several years ago as well. They lowered the water level at that time and inspected the exposed river bed above the dam, along with the retaining structure itself but could not find the source of the leakage. I’m not sure what is different now… maybe they have some new “leak detection” technology. They seem confident that this current attempt will be successful.
RIVER RUNS LOW
In any case, we had very little rain during August and river levels were at a low point. This is the time to get down there and walk the river corridor, so on Labor Day my wife Kate and I did just that.
As beautiful and scenic as the river is, not many people take advantage of the opportunity to explore it. That is mainly because little public access exists along the waterway. I’ll tell you what though, if I was a kid living up here now I’d be riding my bike down to the river with a fishing rod strapped to the handlebars. You can walk along the bank watching for deeper pools, knowing that they will hold ever-increasing numbers of bass and trout as the water level drops. Years ago, my friends and I did just that, bringing along an old army surplus mess kit and cooking fresh fish over a small driftwood fire. Sometimes one of the guys would smuggle a pound of bacon out of their house so we could fry that first to provide smoky, aromatic, sizzling oil to lay the freshly cleaned trout in.
Now of course, all I have to do is walk out the back door, get down to the river via an old set of stone steps behind the neighbor’s place, and start hiking. I thoroughly enjoy the fact that I’m not going to see anyone else, and will share my walk only with eagles, deer, ospreys, an occasional coyote, and the fish.
LABOR DAY STROLL
On our Labor Day hike, Kate and I strolled along shooting photos of leaves floating past, of crayfish we spotted in the shallows, of small sculpins finning in slow current areas, and simple landscape shots where we could include bends in the river as part of the composition. We found wonderful pieces of natural driftwood art: one that looked like the head and horns of an antelope; another that resembled a saguaro cactus; a beautiful arching cedar trunk de-limbed by tumbling along the rocky watercourse; and a sawn stump with roots spiraling out like octopus arms.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
RIVER WALK - PART 1
Author's note: On Labor Day 2008, my wife and I went for a hike along the Escanaba River which runs past our home in Cornell, Michigan (Upper Peninsula). This walk inspired a long journaling session that I turned into a multi-part blog. Part one appears today and four or more parts will appear on successive days. I hope you enjoy this series.
By: Ray Hansen
The river flowing past our home goes through many changes. Some are seasonal. Winter brings a complete freeze except where springs and other underground seepages flow into the waterway, and there are many such spots. Spring brings a roiling and sometimes rampaging torrent when the ice melts. At times the ice floes create a temporary blockage and water rises up the banks to get around these frozen natural dams. We don’t have to worry about that affecting us. Our house is twenty feet above the normal level on a bluff that drops straight down like the edge of a canyon.
Summer sees a gradual lowering of the water level and offers the best time to hike along the river because the shorelines are dry and composed of flat limestone that can be travelled on almost like sidewalks in town. Autumn varies depending on how rainy the year has been. Seeing minor daily fluctuation in water levels is normal. Heavy thunderstorms that lash the countryside with rain can cause a surge in water levels, but the rise seems to be a foot at most.
CONTROL THE FLOW
Dams spaced along the river help keep levels under control. We have a dam about ten miles upstream from us, and another about seven miles downstream. They seem to be about one hundred years old. Both have small reservoirs backed up behind them, and water is let through or held back according to some set of standards the local water control agency follows. Their system seems to work well. As I mentioned I have not seen any problems, nor has anyone else I have talked to along the stretch we live on - except Marv. He is the old-timer whose house I have been doing side jobs at this year.
Marv no longer lives at his riverfront place. He’s in town now at an assisted living facility. Even at 93 or so, he really doesn’t need much assistance, but staying there is, I suppose, easier than trying to run and maintain your own home. His son – who lives downstate – hires me to do the work at the river place. He brings his family up here for a week each summer.
OLD TIME DAM BREAK
Anyway, Marv said that when he was a kid – a long time ago – the dam upstream from us gave way. That event likely flooded the river corridor I live along, but there were no homes in this stretch at that time. Looking at the river bank today, I can detect a high water mark about eight or ten feet above the current average level. Maybe that is how high the water came up when the dam broke. Marv did not see what happened to this stretch of the river during that cataclysmic event. He was a kid and only recalls hearing about it.
Watch for part two of this blog tomorrow, 10 Sept. 2008
By: Ray Hansen
The river flowing past our home goes through many changes. Some are seasonal. Winter brings a complete freeze except where springs and other underground seepages flow into the waterway, and there are many such spots. Spring brings a roiling and sometimes rampaging torrent when the ice melts. At times the ice floes create a temporary blockage and water rises up the banks to get around these frozen natural dams. We don’t have to worry about that affecting us. Our house is twenty feet above the normal level on a bluff that drops straight down like the edge of a canyon.
Summer sees a gradual lowering of the water level and offers the best time to hike along the river because the shorelines are dry and composed of flat limestone that can be travelled on almost like sidewalks in town. Autumn varies depending on how rainy the year has been. Seeing minor daily fluctuation in water levels is normal. Heavy thunderstorms that lash the countryside with rain can cause a surge in water levels, but the rise seems to be a foot at most.
CONTROL THE FLOW
Dams spaced along the river help keep levels under control. We have a dam about ten miles upstream from us, and another about seven miles downstream. They seem to be about one hundred years old. Both have small reservoirs backed up behind them, and water is let through or held back according to some set of standards the local water control agency follows. Their system seems to work well. As I mentioned I have not seen any problems, nor has anyone else I have talked to along the stretch we live on - except Marv. He is the old-timer whose house I have been doing side jobs at this year.
Marv no longer lives at his riverfront place. He’s in town now at an assisted living facility. Even at 93 or so, he really doesn’t need much assistance, but staying there is, I suppose, easier than trying to run and maintain your own home. His son – who lives downstate – hires me to do the work at the river place. He brings his family up here for a week each summer.
OLD TIME DAM BREAK
Anyway, Marv said that when he was a kid – a long time ago – the dam upstream from us gave way. That event likely flooded the river corridor I live along, but there were no homes in this stretch at that time. Looking at the river bank today, I can detect a high water mark about eight or ten feet above the current average level. Maybe that is how high the water came up when the dam broke. Marv did not see what happened to this stretch of the river during that cataclysmic event. He was a kid and only recalls hearing about it.
Watch for part two of this blog tomorrow, 10 Sept. 2008
Monday, September 8, 2008
TURNED AROUND - PART 2
This is part two of Friday's blog. I hope you enjoy it.
After resting for a while I heard something approaching from the north. I suspected it was a deer (turned out there were three), and the roots of the cedar kept me hidden from them. A check of my watch showed that legal shooting time was just seconds away. The area was just too dark however, unless they passed very close.
I eased my rifle into position just before they arrived. The season was just seconds old, and I had not yet heard a single shot – even in the distance – when two big does and a smaller four-point buck walked past in single file. Too close to use the scope, I sighted under its ring mounts and touched off.
When the deer was down and field-dressed, I returned to the cedar to see how close they had been. Eight short steps had separated us! That small buck set two personal “records” I have never come close to matching since: shortest wait after legal shooting time; and closest shot. As far as the state of Michigan was concerned, I was probably the first person - statewide - to successfully bag a deer during that particular season.
So even though I was turned around in the woods, the hunt was successful. But honestly, having the season over almost before it started deprived me of some great “stump-sitting” time. This was one of the deer hunting experiences that helped me learn to pass up some easy shots, and not trade quick success for “quality time” in the woods.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
After resting for a while I heard something approaching from the north. I suspected it was a deer (turned out there were three), and the roots of the cedar kept me hidden from them. A check of my watch showed that legal shooting time was just seconds away. The area was just too dark however, unless they passed very close.
I eased my rifle into position just before they arrived. The season was just seconds old, and I had not yet heard a single shot – even in the distance – when two big does and a smaller four-point buck walked past in single file. Too close to use the scope, I sighted under its ring mounts and touched off.
When the deer was down and field-dressed, I returned to the cedar to see how close they had been. Eight short steps had separated us! That small buck set two personal “records” I have never come close to matching since: shortest wait after legal shooting time; and closest shot. As far as the state of Michigan was concerned, I was probably the first person - statewide - to successfully bag a deer during that particular season.
So even though I was turned around in the woods, the hunt was successful. But honestly, having the season over almost before it started deprived me of some great “stump-sitting” time. This was one of the deer hunting experiences that helped me learn to pass up some easy shots, and not trade quick success for “quality time” in the woods.
Copyright Ray Hansen, 2008
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